Thursday, September 12, 2013

How to choose Kitchen Cabinet Colors

How to choose Kitchen Cabinet Colors

Picking kitchen cabinet colors can be a big decision. You may have paint chips & swatches taped up all over your kitchen. Since you will probably have to paint several coats, you want to make sure you get the color right the first time. There is nothing worse than finishing a diy project that took several weeks only to discover that you hate the finished result. Here is how to pick kitchen cabinet colors that you will love for years to come.

Instructions

    1

    Base your kitchen cabinet colors around a subtle theme. This doesn't mean that your kitchen has to end up looking like a tacky restaurant. Instead follow the lead of Trading Spaces designers & look at food or flowers for your inspiration. It might seem like a kitchen based around a lemon would be too bright. However, if you cut open a lemon you will notice that there are many tones of yellow & even white. Stop thinking of an asparagus as being just green & really look to the things surrounding you for inspiration.

    2

    Keep it neutral. After you finish painting your cupboards, you will probably never want to do it again. So, choose kitchen cabinet colors that will work with a lot of different styles. This way you won't have to repaint when your decorating sensibilities change in a few years. This also ensures that if you need to sell your house you probably won't need to go through all of that work again.

    3

    Think of the kitchen cabinet colors en mass. Bright turquoise might be your favorite color so it seems like a fantastic idea to slap it on the cupboards. However, you probably have more cabinet space than you do wall space in your kitchen. This means that bright color will be the dominate one in the room & it will probably seem overwhelming. Instead, use a funky color on the window treatments, light fixture or get a new set of fun dishes.

    4

    Open up the magazines. Usually, if you are trying a diy project, the decorating magazines can be discouraging. Everything seems too expensive & requires a team of carpenters. However, you can probably see what the popular kitchen cabinet colors are. This is one thing that you can actually afford & emulate. A pretty paint color costs the same price as an ugly one.

How to Make Cabinet Doors With Moulding

New cabinets are a great way to transform an old kitchen or bathroom. They are also a very expensive way to do it. Simply replacing your cabinet doors can achieve much of the effect, with little of the cost. Just by using commonly available moldings and plywood, you can easily and quickly upgrade your doors and your kitchen or bath.

Instructions

    1

    Make a diagram of your cabinets. Measure the height and width of each cabinet door opening and record it on the diagram. Regardless of whether you choose to list height or width first, whichever dimension you list first should be the first dimension on all the doors. This saves a lot of confusion and remeasuring down the line.

    2

    Add a 1 inch to both dimensions on each door opening. Gang ripping the plywood is the fastest method, as opposed to cutting out one door at a time. Most of your doors should have some common dimensions. Simply rip a sheet of plywood to a common dimension, and then cut the individual doors out of the ripped sheet. For example, a lot of base cabinet doors will be the same height. Just rip the sheet to that dimension and then come back and cut the doors out according to width. That will save several cuts for each sheet of plywood.

    3

    Determine molding dimensions. There are two ways to do this. The first is more accurate but also more time consuming. Place a piece of molding where it will go on the door and use a pencil to mark the two corners. The second involves measuring each side of the door and recording the measurement. It is best to write the dimension on the side of the door as well as a separate cut sheet. Then use the measurements to mark the molding so you know where to cut each piece.

    4

    Using the marks made in Step 3, cut the molding. Each mark is a long point of a 45 degree cut. That is, the saw will cut from the mark, or long point, across and into the body of the molding, so that the front side of the molding is shorter than the back side.

    5

    Place the molding in place on the door and check to see if any pieces need to be recut. When all the molding is ready, apply glue to the back side and then nail in place. Fill the nail holes with wood putty and caulk the seams where the molding meets the plywood panel.

Wednesday, September 11, 2013

How to Get a Designer Kitchen Backsplash

A backsplash will really give your kitchen a beautiful custom look. Here's how to design your backsplash.

Instructions

    1

    The very first thing you will have to decide is what look you would like to achieve. If you have a modern kitchen, country kitchen, traditional kitchen, euro kitchen or any other type of style, it must be considered first.

    2

    The next step is to think about the colors you would like to bring into your kitchen. Most kitchens are in the neutral color family and could really use a little color to jazz it up. The backsplash is the perfect place to do it.

    3

    Glass mosaic tiles are becoming more popular now than ever with new kitchens. Glass mosaic tiles come in square and subway but that doesn't mean you have to confirm to those shapes. It is possible to cut glass tiles with a tile cutter and make any design you like.

    Glass mosaic tiles look wonderful in modern kitchens, traditional kitchens and euro kitchens and the colors are limitless!

    4

    Homeowners looking to design their kitchen with a Tuscan theme will enjoy stone tiles or ceramic tiles that look like stone. Many people choose to paint these tiles but you if you are not very artistic you may buy a backsplash that is pre-painted.

    5

    Stainless steel backsplashes are really making a comeback with kitchen designers these days. A stainless steel backsplash is one of the easiest backsplash to keep clean.

    Stainless steel backsplashes can be installed as a sheet or tiles and come in several patterns and textures. The more interesting the texture or pattern, the more expensive the stainless steel backsplash will be.

    6

    A quartz backsplash is stylish and easy to keep clean. This look goes with almost any type of kitchen and comes in a variety of colors that will should suit almost any kitchen design.

    Quartz is nonporous, stain resistant, heat resistant and scratch resistant so if you are looking for a really sturdy stone, this alternative to granite or marble may be just what you are looking for.

    Quartz is sold as engineered stone and is 93% quartz and can be found almost anywhere granite and marble are sold. It can also be found at Home Depot, Lowes and other large home repair retailers.

    Engineered stone is very heavy so this project should be left to the professionals and do not try to do this yourself.

    7

    Look at home magazines to get ideas of what other kitchens are doing. When you go shopping for your backsplash, bring pictures of what you like so the sales person is on the same page with you and knows exactly what you are looking for.

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

How to Cut Marble Counter Tops

Renovating the counter tops in your home can be a challenging task. You must measure correctly and make quality cuts to make your job look as professional as possible. Marble is a beautiful choice for counter tops, but cutting marble can be tricky.

Instructions

    1

    Mark the marble counter with a grease pencil where you want to cut it.

    2

    Put on your protective goggles and gloves.

    3

    Screw in a hose to the water connection on the wet saw. Plug the wet saw into a standard 110 V outlet. Turn on the water source.

    4

    Line up the wet saw with the cut line. Pull the saw's trigger and slowly push the wet saw through the marble. Don't go too fast as the marble won't get wet enough and the saw may crack the marble.

How to Install an Aluminnum Backsplash in a Kitchen

An aluminum kitchen backsplash can add a sophisticated, contemporary vibe to your kitchen or vintage charm depending on the pattern and finish you choose. Either way, it's economical, easy to install, less time-consuming than tile, and will give your kitchen a fabulous new look.

Instructions

    1

    Measure your backsplash area and purchase aluminum panels that most closely match your height. For example, 18 inches between counter top and the bottom of your overhead cabinets is most common, so you would purchase aluminum panels 18 inches high to minimize cuts. Measure the total length needed to complete your backsplash and order at least 2 or 3 extra panels to allow for mistakes.

    2

    Many merchants offer stamped designs or patterns. Choose one you like for your backsplash, but try and keep the pattern repeat to 6 inches if you are working with a smaller area (like the common 18-inch height).

    3

    Use tin snips with pointed blades (wear protective gloves) to trim your first panel to fit (if necessary, perhaps to accommodate an outlet or light switch in the wall) starting at an outside edge of your backsplash. Once it's trimmed and dry-fitted to the wall to ensure a snug fit, coat the back of the aluminum panel with adhesive, like Acrylpro Tile Adhesive. Make sure you spread adhesive into the stamped designs for the best protection against dents.

    4

    Press the buttered panel firmly in place against the wall. Then, hammer decorative brad nails into each corner to hold.

    5

    Cut the next panel. There will be a 3/8-inch overlap channel to help lock the 2 panels together for a snug fit. Still coat the back with adhesive, making sure to coat the stamped design well, but this time add a bead of clear caulk to the overlap channel before securing against the wall. Once placed on the wall, add the decorative brad nails in the corners and continue with the rest of the panels.

    6

    Once all the panels are in place and secured with brad nails, apply a bead of clear caulk between the countertop and bottom of panels. Let dry completely.

    7

    Sit back and enjoy your new backsplash.

How to Install a Shutoff Valve for a Kitchen Faucet

How to Install a Shutoff Valve for a Kitchen Faucet

It is convenient to be able to turn the water off under your kitchen sink if the faucet is in need of repairs or replacement. This is only possible if there is a shut-off valve installed on the hot and cold water lines feeding the kitchen faucet. Adding shut-off valves to the supply lines sounds more intimidating than it really is.

Instructions

    1

    Turn the main water supply valve to the whole house or building off and turn a water faucet on in another room to relieve pressure on the water system.

    2

    Wrap Teflon tape around the supply connection (the connection that the supply line for the hot and cold water for the faucet will be hooked up to) of the shut-off valve that will be installed under the kitchen sink. Look at the photo of the two valves above. The supply connection is the small hook-up pointing forward on the top valve and the small hook-up pointing upward on the bottom valve.

    3

    Clean the hot and the cold copper supply lines coming out of the wall under the sink with a piece of emery cloth to remove any dirt and debris. Cleaning the copper pipes will help the connection between the copper pipe and the shut-off valve become stronger and minimize the possibility of leaks.

    4
    This is what is called a compression fitting.

    Realize a leak-free connection between the copper pipe and the shut-off valve is made possible by what is called a compression fitting. A compression fitting is composed of a threaded nut, a compression ring and the shut-off valve itself. Slide one nut onto each copper pipe with the threading toward the ends of the copper pipes, followed by one compression ring for each pipe.

    5

    Slide the valves onto the ends of the pipes and slide the compression rings and nuts toward the valves. Tighten the nuts into the valves with a pair of crescent wrenches. Tightening the nuts onto the valves smashes the compression rings onto the copper pipe creating a water-tight seal. Be sure the valves are in the "off" position so all of the water pressure does not hit the faucet all at once.

    6

    Thread the hot and cold water supply lines that feed the faucet onto the supply connection of each valve and tighten with a crescent wrench.

    7

    Turn the main water supply to the house or building back on. Then turn the valves to the kitchen faucet to the "on" position.

How to Build a Kitchen Pantry

How to Build a Kitchen Pantry

A kitchen pantry is a necessity, especially if you have a family to care for. Whittle out some space for one in your kitchen. It takes some carpentry skills and time, but it's worth it to have a space to put your cereal.
This one is a bare-bones design, but you can make it as nice as you like by using better wood. The quantities and exact materials will vary according to your own specific needs.

Instructions

Making a Kitchen Pantry

    1

    Find a place where you can place a pantry. In the pictures, an unused closet whose back wall was in the kitchen was used. You may have a similar closet.

    2

    Block off your space with a plastic sheet hung from the ceiling down and taped shut; this next bit is very dusty. If you don't, drywall dust will get all over your home.
    Knock out the drywall with a hammer. In a closet, there should be no wiring or plumbing that will get in the way. Cut the edges with a box cutter or reciprocating saw to neaten.

    3

    Measure the empty space. You'll need the height, the width and the depth. Measure in several areas; the insides may not be square.

    4

    Design your pantry. Look at what you'll need to put in it and how much space you need between the shelves. If you like to buy large bulk cereal boxes, for instance, you'll need more space.
    Consider what kind of cooking you like to do. For example, you might like to have a shelf just for your baking goods, like your flour and sugar containers.

    5

    Install plywood on the sides, bottom and top of your pantry, securing with screws. If you are more concerned about appearance, you can use a nicer wood or laminate. Also note that if you want to paint or stain this wood, do it before you install it.

    6

    Make your shelves. The most difficult thing about making pull-out shelves is making sure they're sturdy enough to hold the weight of groceries like canned goods.
    These have a fiberboard bottom and sides created from 1-by-2s. Do one shelf at a time, to make sure each one works.
    Before you attach the pieces together, take the sides of the shelves and rout the outer sides near the bottom to make a groove for the hardware to work properly.
    Also, rout the inner sides so you can sit the fiberboard bottom tightly inside the grooves.

    7
    Countersink the screws and add cut dowels.

    Put the shelf together, using wood glue and screws.
    To make the shelf look a little nicer, countersink the screws on the front face. Measure the hole, then cut a piece of dowel in that circumference.
    Glue the dowel piece into the countersink hole.

    8

    Screw the slide-out hardware onto the sides of the cabinets. Take care that this is level.
    Attach the hardware to the bottom of the shelves.
    Repeat with as many shelves as you need.

    9
    Reinforcements.

    Reinforce the shelves. Doing this is a good idea because they'll hold a lot of weight. Here, 1-by-2 pieces of wood were measured to the correct width, then placed underneath the shelf with metal brackets.

    10

    Make a place to store cookie sheets and large pans by attaching a nonsliding shelf. Look at your pans and decide how far apart you want to make the niches. Cut spacers made out of plywood (or wood strips of your choice) and glue them to the top and bottom of this space. Then, measure plywood (or wood of your choice) to make the vertical spacers. Slide in the vertical pieces of wood to create the niches.

    11

    Finish the pantry. Add molding to the raw edges of drywall.
    Add cupboard doors (you may have to adapt off-the-shelf doors or make your own). You could also install a curtain instead.

Drinking Water Cooler Maintenance

Proper maintenance of water cooler equipment increases the chances that the water will remain fresh and sanitary. Cleaning and care of a cooler is relatively easy.

Cleaning Frequency

    Clean the cooler every six weeks, or each time you change the bottle. If the bottle is changed sooner than six weeks, clean the cooler then. Regular cleanings help to prevent bacterial contamination.

Cleaning Solution

    Use a bleach solution to clean the water cooler. Fill a sink or a bucket with a gallon of water. Add one tablespoon of bleach to the water. Allow the bleach to mix thoroughly with the water before you begin to clean the cooler. If you decide to prepare enough solution to last for several days, make sure that you use the solution or pour it out after 30 days. It is important that you use a fresh solution to clean the water cooler with every 30 days or less.

Water Dispenser

    Before you start to clean the water dispenser, unplug the cooler from the electrical outlet. Wear a pair of rubber gloves to protect your hands while you work with the bleach solution. You can use a sponge or wash rag to scrub the dispenser. After you clean crumbs and stains from the dispenser, drop the equipment inside the bleach solution. Let the dispenser soak for two to five minutes. Rinse the dispenser and the reservoir thoroughly. A good way to do this is to run cool sink water over the dispenser for several seconds. Clean the reservoir by pouring four glasses of clean sink water into the reservoir. Use a bucket to catch the water as it comes out of the reservoir.

Dip Tray

    Clean the dip try with a mild detergent. Feel free to use your dish detergent to clean the tray after you remove it from the cooler. Rinse the tray thoroughly before you reattach it to the water cooler.

Bottle Replacement

    Wash and rinse your hands before you handle a new water bottle. Wipe the neck of the new bottle with a paper towel before you place it in the cooler. Ensure that the expiration date on the bottle has not elapsed. It is also important that you are comfortably strong enough to lift the bottle to avoid personal injury. Remove the cap off of the mouth of the bottle and place the mouth in the cooler. Avoid touching the cooler spigot with your hands or other objects, to prevent bacterial growth.

Storing Bottles

    Water bottles should be stored in clean, well-ventilated areas. Bottles should not be stored near paint, other chemicals or in small bathroom or janitorial closets. To keep the water fresh, avoid storing bottles in direct sunlight.

How to Adjust Spring Tension

Most recently built homes have automatic garage door openers that mechanically raise and lower the doors, but whether your garage doors are opened manually or mechanically, they require springs to do the work. Springs decrease the workload on the machine and extend the lifespan of your door system. Over time, the springs on these doors wear out, and it can make putting the door up or down harder. But before you go out and buy a new set of springs, consider adjusting them to the brackets they are hooked on. This will adjust the tension of the spring and get more use out of them.

Instructions

    1

    Locate the springs. Most garage doors have at least two, and the springs are usually near the sides.

    2

    Close the garage door. Adjusting springs while the door is up could cause it to slam shut.

    3

    Find the bracket each spring is hooked into. These brackets will have multiple notches. Unhook each spring from its notch and place it in the next one down if the springs are too loose, or one higher if it is too tight.

    4

    Open the door. It should open and close without too much force.

    5

    Try different notches on the bracket to find the setting that works best if your first attempt failed. On some doors you can even move the brackets to get the optimum tension.

Ideas for Designing a Room

Ideas for Designing a Room

Designing a room involves implementing a variety of ideas from style to function. Planning and implementing a design budget is one of the first steps, followed by choosing style, color and accessories. Homeowners can decorate rooms themselves or hire professional interior designers for assistance.

Budget

    Considering how much money will go into the design of a room is essential. A budget can determine price points for a variety of room elements such as flooring, furniture and light fixtures. Make a budget by first figuring out how much money is available for the entire project. Then determine what are necessities, as well as items that would be nice to include but are not essential. Decide what items that are currently in the room can stay in the new design scheme. Determine whether any items can be refurbished by upholstering or painting.

Style

    Choose a style for the new room. Contemporary or modern design elements have clean, minimal lines and geometric shapes. Old World and French country decorating elements combine a rustic appeal with a mix of European antiquity. The 1950s can be seen through retro designs that implement vintage advertising pieces. Thumb through magazines to view different style ideas.

Functionality

    Determine how the room will be used. A room that will be occupied by pets and children may require furniture and carpeting that can handle additional wear. Consider scrubbable or washable paints in high-traffic areas. Find what key pieces are necessary to make the room most functional. For example, a home office may need additional outlets for computer access and setup, as well as additional task lighting.

Color Palette

    The psychology of color can set the mood in a room. Warm, golden colors such as reds, yellows and oranges cause stimulation and increased appetites and are commonly found in kitchens. Cool palettes of blues and violet hues promote relaxation. Dark colors can make a large room feel smaller and cozier, while pastel colors evoke a feeling of open space. Accent walls can be painted a different color to add additional color to a room.

Accessories

    Accessories are the finishing touches to a room. Adding coordinating accessories like light fixtures, rugs and throw pillows pull style, color and functionality together. When shopping locally, always ask what the return policy is. Many times an item may look great in the store but not fit as imagined when placed in a room.

Monday, September 9, 2013

About Floor Plans for Houses

About Floor Plans for Houses

Designing a home is such a creative and inspiring project to think about and to dream of while looking through real estate ads. You can plan an architectural wonder home for a vacation rendezvous or an environmentally sound retirement cottage. Spacious bathrooms and sunset balconies, walk-in fireplaces and rustic kitchens are just a few design elements you can dream of while sitting at your job. Each detail of the house is imagined and adjusted to fit your desires. Of course, if you do not want to have to try to think it all through or maybe you just don't do well in the creative process then you can buy standard floor plans all measured and laid out for you. A lot of people start with a standard floor plan and then modify it with an architect to fit their needs, many times based on the limits of their money.

Significance


    Planning ahead is crucial in building a house. You need to measure every detail of the design and calculate it to fit together with the whole project. It is a serious job and takes hours of an architects' time. Many times, they will sit down with you and ask you questions about yourself so they can understand what is important to you in the home design. If you are an avid music lover, you might want you to have an acoustically-designed living space. If you are a food aficionado, then a gourmet kitchen with an open seating area might fit your cup of tea. If you simply want to make your home as efficient as today's architects can imagine, then alternative energy sources might be included in your plans. Without a plan, your house will be pointless and without a focal point, like a painting without a subject. Even if you start with a standard floor plan, making a few changes with your designer can turn it into a dream home you will be proud to call your own.

Expert Insight

    Professional Architects

    Even the best dreamer needs professional help when it comes to drawing up home plans. You need to meet city, county, and state building codes just to get the blueprints approved. The professional architect will plug all the design elements into a sophisticated software program that can calculate the different elements of the blueprints. The program will notify the user of problems until they are fixed. You ill be involved with many different professionals at each stage of the design process and a good architect will work through each level with you. Money is a key issue during this stage, as designers and architects are expensive to hire, but the investment will pay for itself many times over in the end. Expect your architect to ask you several questions, such as time frame, financial constraints, contact personnel, as well as detailed questions about your heating and cooling choices, lighting options, water and sewer options, and other specific issues about your plans.

Function

    Young Couple Dreaming of House

    The purpose of putting your dreams on paper and calling the resulting blueprint a house plan is simply so you can have a real tangible, visual drawing of what your house will look like. You might find that the dreams in your head are not the same looking when they are on paper. The same thing will apply when you show your plans to your builder. He will be able to see on paper what you are thinking and not have to rely on his interpretation of your desires. The house plan will be referenced over and over during the whole process and as a result you will be ordering many copies of the blueprints.

Considerations

    Frustrated Woman in House Planning

    Planning a new house can be a very satisfying process if you take the time to write down everything you think of and address it with your architect, before any action starts on the approval process of your blueprints. When you finally think you are finished, do not call up your architect and tell him you have a new idea. The approval process that can take weeks to get through will be stopped and process will have to be scheduled to start again at a later date. Your actual construction can be put off for months by not having a solid plan for the approval boards.

Prevention/Solution

    Unfinished House Construction

    If you really want to keep your house plans affordable and realistic, do your homework. Understand what your financial limitations are and find out what you think you can do within that framework. For instance, if you think you want a kitchen with granite countertops and high tech appliances but only have a budget for a few thousand dollars, your architect will have the embarrassing job of bringing your hopes and dreams down to reality. Make a budget and stick with it until you have a plan that stays within the boundaries. Plan on everything costing more than you thought, even after doing your homework and be ready for surprises.
    When you look for an architect, the most important issue is references. Ask them for a list of work they have completed and the name of a person who can vouch for their work. Most companies host online sites and list satisfied customers' responses, but look for comments, both good and bad, about the architectural firm from other sources as well. Check with the Better Business Bureau for any complaints filed against them.

How to Make Carpet Shampoo Cleaner

There are many homemade recipes for carpet cleaners. Many common stains can be treated with household items you have on hand, saving you from having to run to the store to buy a commercial cleaner. If one treatment does not work, go on to the next until your stain is removed and your carpet is looking as good as it did before the spill.

Instructions

Generic Cleanup

    1

    Soak your stain completely with club soda.

    2

    Combine one part borax with two parts baking soda or two parts corn starch.

    3

    Mix 1 tbsp. each of liquid hand soap and vinegar into a quart of water. Use this mixture in a spray bottle.

    4

    Combine one part each of non-bleach liquid laundry soap and one part liquid fabric softener with six parts water. Pour this mixture into a spray bottle or a carpet-cleaning machine.

Grease or Oil Stains

    5

    Sprinkle baking soda.

    6

    Try sprinkling corn starch to soak up the stain.

    7

    Cat litter or sawdust also can be used to soak up the stain.

Ink Stains

    8

    Sprinkle cream of tartar on the stain.

    9

    Follow with drops of lemon juice.

    10

    Dribble isopropyl alcohol over the ink in an area that is well-ventilated.

Blood Stains

    11

    Start with cold water.

    12

    Follow with old reliable club soda.

    13

    Allow hydrogen peroxide to bubble and work into the stain.

Tips on Pressure Washing Wood

Pressure washing can quickly and effectively clean any object around the house, from a fence to the outside of the home itself. A good pressure washer eliminates the need to scrub away dirt and grime. And while pressure washing makes cleaning easier, a few tricks can make the pressure washing itself easier, too. Work smart and a pressure washer can cut down on the time and water it takes to do the job.

Choose a Nozzle

    Choosing the correct nozzle for the job is an important part of pressure washing. You want a nozzle that will cover the most surface area while still effectively cleaning the object that is being pressure-washed.

    A brick wall, for instance, will withstand a harder pressure-washing stream than a glass window. For wood, it will depend on the type of job you need done. If you want to strip old chipping paint, try a more-concentrated nozzle with about a 15-degree spray. For a more-general cleaning of wood, try a nozzle with a wider spray, perhaps 25 or 40 degrees, the kind you would find on a car-wash nozzle.

    Try several nozzles and adjust the spray before settling on the one that seems to be doing the best job.

Aim Well

    If you are working around windows or other breakable objects, the force of the water stream from the pressure washer could very well break the glass. Aim the nozzle carefully when working around windows and other fragile material.

    Start the washing away from the object you want to clean and work your way into it. That allows you to test the washer's pressure. A pressure washer with a good strong stream may "chip away" at the material if you are standing too close and the stream is too concentrated in one area.

Spray Top to Bottom

    As with any cleaning, always work from the top down, sliding the dirt and grime toward the bottom. By starting at the top and working your way down, you only need to pressure-wash an area once, instead of having to go back and clean again the areas you've already covered.

How to Cut Granite Tops

How to Cut Granite Tops

Granite tops are now popular in kitchens and bathrooms. Homeowners often switch out their old counter tops and replace them with granite tops in hopes to sell their homes much faster. Granite tops are very hard stone, but are also very fragile, so it's crucial that you get a professional to cut the granite tops for you. HOWEVER, if you are determined to do it yourself, here's how to cut granite tops:

Instructions

    1

    Go to a granite shop and watch the professionals cut granite tops. Ask them questions if you have any. It always helps to have a point of reference when you're cutting granite tops on your own.

    2

    Measure the area the granite will cover. Be sure to measure several times! Make note of areas that need to be cut out (sink, etc) of the granite slab.

    3

    Use scrap pieces of granite to practice on. You'll need to get used to handling the saw before you cut on the main granite top.

    4

    Use a diamond wet saw to cut large sections of the granite top. Use a waterjet saw to cut intricate shapes like the sink opening. Use a router to shape the edges of the granite top as desired.

    5

    Be careful! Cutting the sink opening is challenging since granite tops are very fragile. Once you start cutting, there is no turning back. Measure twice (or more!) and cut once.

How Does an Entry Door Complement a Home's Architectural Style?

The Right Proportions

    Whatever the architectural style of your home may be, the front door is the first thing visitors look at. When the entry to your home blends in with the architecture, the entry door itself is a welcoming site. If the entry door is too small or too big, or contradicts the style of your home, visitors will get a sense of discord, and the welcoming feeling you hoped to achieve will be absent.
    One of the more important factors to consider is size, or more precisely, proportion. An entry door should reflect the proportions of the facade of your home. When your door reflects the height and width of the facade of your home, the entry way is balanced. The roof and sides of your home lead the eye to the door and the door leads the eye outward.
    If the facade of the home is long, as in a rambling ranch, a double door with sidelights will pull the two "wings" of the house together. This is an example of balance.

The Location

    Where the front door is located also affects its impact on the overall appeal of your home. Bungalows, for example, will sometimes have the entryway located off to one side. This door needs to be prominent so visitors can more easily determine where the entrance is. But bungalows are often smaller, and their facades limited in size. To compliment the coziness of the bungalow architecture, the door should be small, but paneled and brightly painted.
    Most doors are somewhat centered to a home's design. When it's the center of attraction, it needs to be a jewel in the architecture.

The Decorative Elements

    A door that reflects the geometric elements of the architecture is more likely to compliment your home. Doors are rectangular; this is part of how they work. But doors can be more than their shape.
    Victorian architecture is known for its spires and arched windows. The door of a Victorian home should be tall, with intricately carved scrollwork and curved hardware. An arched transom further compliments the architecture, as do sidelights.
    On the other end of the spectrum, a mid-century modern ranch home with its clean lines and understated windows needs a door that reflects the linear and geometric appeal of the home's style. A door with high gloss paint and a frosted window or block glass sidelights would do well for the mid-century architecture.

Where to Buy Glass Block Windows

Where to Buy Glass Block Windows

Glass block windows have the unique ability to provide both natural light and insulation to a living space. They're often used for basement windows, but they can make any living space more beautiful. Glass block windows are practical alternative to standard windows, and they're often used in place of solid walls; they're even used for ceilings and floors.

History

    Single glass blocks were first used to provide light in cellars and to the bowels of ships. These first glass blocks were square sections of conventional glass. Around 1880, glass blocks were constructed in the shape of bottles. They were mouth blown and had a slight opening. Even though these blocks were set in mortar, condensation always worked its way in. Machine-made glass blocks were the next stage of development, which were an improvement in size consistency. In the 1930s, improved machines created even better products. The Corning-Steuben and Owens-Illinois blocks were among them. These blocks were constructed by two halves of glass block pressed together at high temperatures, leaving a hollow center and complete seal. The same basic principle of construction is used in making glass blocks today.

Glass or Acrylic

    Some of the best features of glass block windows are their thermal insulation, security (over standard windows), excellent light allowance, and decorative beauty.

    Acrylic block has been introduced as a less expensive alternative to glass block. When making your choice, consider that glass block is much harder than acrylic block, and cleaning will leave no scratches on glass. Routine cleaning of acrylic will leave scratches over time. Acrylic block also is easily scratched by workers during installation. Acrylic block windows eventually acquire a faded and cloudy appearance.

Stores that Sell Glass Block Windows

    Glass block windows are sold at Home Depot, Lowe's and hardware stores. Any building or home improvement store will carry glass blocks. Not all home improvement stores will have unique shapes commonly required by interior projects, such as curved sections, but most will gladly order them for you at no extra charge.

Shopping for Glass Block Windows Online

    If you're located far from brick and mortar home improvement retailers, many online outlets sell glass block windows. Many of them offer free quotes over the phone, a real time saver.

    Pacific Accent offers a wide choice of patterns in glass blocks and frame option on their Website that is located in our Resources section.

    Block Window Systems offers a series of affordable glass block windows, which can be ordered online. This company offers both acrylic and glass block windows and has free shipping on all orders.

    Pittsburgh Corning's Website provides a list of retailers that stock their brand of glass block windows. Follow the links in our Resources section. Enter your zip code for the ones nearest you.

Colored Glass Block

    Columbus Glass Block has a large collection of colored glass blocks and design options to choose from. You can add a splash of color to a standard glass block window, or create a design of your own.

    Blocks with designs are not painted on, but are fused to the glass so they will not chip or crack. You can purchase or create large murals or paintings spread out over a large grouping of glass blocks, or you can purchase a design for one single block.

Warning

    None of the products or retailers listed here are recommendations. Please take care when making your purchase.

    If you're building a glass wall for your shower, you may be able to do the project yourself. If you're installing a large glass block window into an exterior part of your home, you should consult with a builder.

How Does Sound-Deadening Work?

How Does Sound-Deadening Work?

What is Sound Deadening?

    Sound deadening is the process by which a home, building or other structure is made less able to carry sounds. This is done as a privacy measure during the structure's construction, so that sounds generated within one room will not carry to another room. To effectively understand how sound deadening works, one must first understand how sound travels.

How Does Sound Travel?

    Sound exists as an energy wave, emitting from the source and travelling outward in all directions until the energy of the wave has dissipated over the space it has traveled. This is why one must yell to be heard by another person over a distance. By yelling one generates greater energy in the sound wave, causing it to travel further. Sound can be redirected and manipulated as well. If one were to make a loud noise in an empty room containing nothing but hard surfaces, you would make an echo. Also the sound you made would be much more easily heard from adjacent rooms as well. The echo is created because the majority of the sound wave bounced back toward you once it impacted against the hard surfaces of the room. Also, some of that sound energy was transferred into the wall upon impact, causing something called sympathetic vibrations. Essentially the wall vibrates at a frequency or frequencies identical to the sound waves that passed into it, becoming a secondary source of sound energy. This vibration acts like an amplifier, transferring the sound through the wall to any adjacent rooms. However, sound is muffled by soft, yielding, porous surfaces. Such surfaces absorb the sound energy without transferring it.

How Does Sound Deadening Work?

    Sound deadening works by heavily insulating the interior of a structure's walls with soft, porous, foam-like or cottony material. This prevents the wall from creating sympathetic vibrations and transferring the sound out of the structure's individual spaces. In homes or buildings where you don't want echoes to bounce within rooms, the easiest way to soundproof that building is to install thick carpeting, drapes and other soft pieces of furniture where the sound will be absorbed. Specially designed foam wall panels are made to be placed on the walls of recording studios in order to completely soak up unwanted echoes. However for residential purposes this is an incredibly expensive and unsightly option.

Sunday, September 8, 2013

How to Calculate an Electricity Bill

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, American households can expect to pay anywhere from $0.06 to $0.12 per kilowatt-hour for electricity. This can translate to hundreds of dollars each month depending on your household usage. Many people are interested in learning how to calculate their electricity bill, and, ultimately, trim the fat from their bill. Learning important pointers on determining the cost per kilowatt-hour and off-peak rates will help you understand and control electricity costs.

Instructions

    1

    Check out local costs per kilowatt-hour. For example, a company may charge $0.06 per kilowatt hour for the first 500 hours, and $0.10 per hour after. If you review your bill, this information should be included on the front page. Or, you can contact your utility company directly for pricing information.

    2

    Make a list of items that are notorious for using high amounts of electricity. For example, an electric oven, water heater, dish washer, air-conditioning unit and furnace typically consume the most energy.

    3

    Once you've made a list of the big energy users in your home, use a free online electricity calculator to estimate your costs (see Resources). This will give you the number of kilowatt-hours used, cost per month and cost per year.

    4

    Ask your utility company whether rates are higher during peak hours. Some utility companies charge higher rates after 6 p.m.

    5

    Compare the accuracy of your estimate to your electricity bill. Once you've calculated the average cost of your electricity bill, review the accuracy of your estimate for a few months. You can also reduce energy consumption on high-consumption items, such as air-conditioning units and heaters, and evaluate the impact monthly.

How to Scale Building Blueprints

Blueprints are graphical reproductions of buildings and other structures. They are created to provide the builder with an idea of how an infrastructure should look. These documents serve as guides to engineers, architects, carpenters and everyone in the construction industry because they contain instructions on how big each part of the building is going to be. That is why it's important for blueprints to also contain precise measurements for every part of the structure.
Blueprints contain miniature drawings of a building so the actual measurements are scaled down so they would fit in the paper. Simply put, scaling a building blueprint means creating a floor plan that that is proportion to the structure that is going to be constructed.

Instructions

    1

    Learn how to read the scale. The scale is like a ruler that has divisions on it to represent standard proportions to distances. You need to understand the scale ratios for you to be able to scale a building blueprint accurately. For instance, if you're going to draw an object following its actual size, the scale is going to be 1:1. A unit measure of the drawing equals a unit of the actual object. If you're going scale it down, you will have to use a ratio that will make it smaller, for instance, drawing a structure at a fifth of its actual size (1:5).

    2

    Determine a scale to use for the building. Logically, the bigger the object really is, the smaller the scale is going to be. For instance, a house might use a scale of 1:1/4---that is, for every foot of the actual size of the building, you measure a fourth of an inch on paper. So 4 feet on the building, is equivalent to an inch on the scaled building blueprint.

    3

    Convert the actual measurements of the building according to the scale ratio of your choice. If you're going to draw a 1:1/4 building blueprint, you need to select the side of the scale rule that is marked 1:1/4.

    4

    Create the scale using the graph paper. Following the 1:1/4 scale ratio, you re-create the ruler on the graph paper this time designating how big 1 foot of floor space is supposed to be. On a scale of 1:1/4, measure inch on the graph paper and mark it as 1 foot.

How to Make An Installation Drill Jig for Installing Cabinet Drawer Pulls ("D" Style)

How to Make An Installation Drill Jig for Installing Cabinet Drawer Pulls (

Installing "D" style drawer pulls in your kitchen and Bathroom cabinets can be a challenge. Making sure that the drawer pull is in the correct location, located consistently with adjacent drawers, with attachment holes are at the correct spacing and are square to the drawer is a challenge. By following the directions in this article you will be able to construct a drawer pull jig. It will ensure that each drawer pull is in the correct location, the mounting holes are at the correct distance apart and square and true.

Instructions

    1
    Drawer Pull Mounting Location

    Determine the location for your drawer pulls. I would recommend installing them in the center of the drawer face. Then following this location for all remaining drawers. I've used sticky tack to layout my pulls, this allows for making adjustments without any damage to the drawer faces.

    2

    Measure the distance from the top of the drawer and from the side to the center of the pull. In our case the face of the drawer is 17-1/2" wide x 6-3/16" high, so I will be installing the pull centered at 8-3/4" from the edge, and 3-3/32" from the top.

    3

    Measure the distance between the mounting holes for the pull. Our is 3-3/4" between mounting holes.

    4
    Drill Jig Mounting Board

    The jig mounting board needs to be at least 2" wider then the drawer, and extend 2" below the center line for the drawer pull.
    Using my drawer face of 17-1/2" wide and a center line dimension of 3-3/32", I selected a piece of wood 19-1/2" x 7-1/2".

    5
    Horizontal Centerline for Drawer Pulls

    From the top edge of the board draw a horizontal line that is equal to the drawer pull center location plus 1" (to allow for the installation of the location dowel pins). Draw a horizontal line across the board.

    6
    Vertical Centerline for Drawer Pulls

    (Measure from the edge of the board the center line distance (from step 2) plus 1" and make a vertical line this will be the center position of the drawer pull.

    7
    Mounting Screw Locations

    Then measure to each side of the vertical mounting line, 1/2 the distance of the drawer pull mounting holes and make a mark on each side of the vertical center line. Check your work at this point with the drawer pull, the mounting holes should line up with your marks and be centered on the mounting board.

    8
    Guide Dowel Pin Position Line

    Measure up from the horizontal centerline the vertical distance for the pull (from step 2) and draw a horizontal line. Then measure up 1/2 the width of the dowel pins and make a second horizontal line. The second line will be the horizontal mounting position for the dowel pins.

    9
    Top Guide Dowel Pin Locations

    From the vertical center line measure over 6" on each side and make a mark. This will become the location for your guide dowel pins. These pins will rest on the top of the drawer face to accurately set the horizontal position of the pull.

    10
    Side Guide Dowel Pin Location

    Measure over from the vertical center line the center line distance (from step 2) and draw a vertical line, then measure 1/2 the width of the dowel pin and make a second line. the intersection of this line and the center line for the drawer pull will be the location for your guide dowel pin.

    11
    Dowel Pin Locations For Drilling

    Drill dowel pin holes using the dowel pin drill bit.

    12

    Drill drawer pull guide holes in jig being very careful to remain perpendicular to the board.

    13

    Insert dowel pins in the top and side locations. These pins on the mounting jig will provide the position on the drawer face to insure that each location is consistent.

    14
    Drawer Pull Drill Jig In Postion

    To use the jig for installing your drawer pulls, place the top guide dowel pins of the jig on the top edge of the drawer and slide the jig to the right placing the side guide dowel pin on the side of the drawer. You may notice that I have an additional piece of wood mounting to the face of my jig, that was due to not having a piece of hard wood large enough for the task so I used another board for the location settings and mounted a hard wood board to the face for the drill guide.

    15
    Drilling the Mounting Holes

    Now that the jig is in position you can use your drill to drill the mounting holes for the drawer pulls.

    16
    The Completed Job, All the handles are all lined up and at an equal distance from the top of the drawer!

    To install the drawer pull insert the mounting screws in the drawer face and screw in to the pull. If you are a little off in your locations, one can use a slightly larger drill bit and open up the clearance between the holes. Just be careful not to go to large so that the drawer pull doesn't cover the holes.

    17
    Installation of Cabnet Knobs

    See my article on installing cabinet knobs for further details on installing your drawer pulls.
    http://www.ehow.com/how_4722118_cabinet-door-knobs-location-jig.html

How to Use Wood As a Tub Surround

How to Use Wood As a Tub Surround

Plastic pre-made tub surrounds are everywhere these days, but the fact is, the walls above and around your tub can be covered with anything you like--as long as it's resistant to moisture. Even wood will work, if you hang and seal it correctly. This design is for a classy-looking, library-style tub surround of stained and glossed oak panels dressed with trim. The wood is stained and given one gloss layer before hanging it, and then is given two more gloss layers after hanging to help protect it from moisture. It's a complicated project and shouldn't be attempted unless you're very comfortable with your carpentry skills, but the result will make your bathroom a place that people talk about.

Instructions

    1

    Prepare your wood. Lay out all your wood panels and trim in a well-ventilated work area. Gently sand (by hand) all surfaces that will be exposed, and wipe away the dust. Use the stain brush to apply the stain generously to the sanded wood. After 10 minutes, wipe it away with a paper towel. Let the stain dry overnight, then apply the polyurethane gloss, brushing it on slowly to avoid creating bubbles. Let it dry overnight.

    2

    Measure the broadest wall above the tub and cut pieces of wetrock to size. To cut the wetrock, stand it on its long end. Use your tape measure to mark at the appropriate length. Set your T-square on the top edge of the piece with the flat guide running down through the mark. Make one straight cut with your razor knife along the guide. Snap the piece into a right angle at that line, then cut it along the reverse side to separate the pieces.

    3

    Affix the wetrock to the wall by spreading carpenter's glue around the back, pressing it against the wall, then driving in drywall screws with your drill and screwdriver bit. Put screws every 6 inches throughout each piece. Repeat all along the area around the tub until it's completely covered with wetrock sheets.

    4

    Use your tape measure, pencil, level and T-square to divide the largest wall into four even sections, with the lines spanning the width and length completely and crossing in the middle. Make sure the horizontal line is level, and that the vertical line crosses it at a 90-degree angle.

    5

    Spread carpenter's glue on the back of one wood panel and press it on the wall near the middle, so that it's bordered on two sides by the horizontal and vertical lines. Nail the panel into place with trim nails, putting them about every 6 inches and sinking them just below the surface of the wood with the nailset. Repeat for each of the other panels, placing them next to each other in a checkerboard pattern until you've hung as many full panels as will fit on the wall.

    6

    For the edges of the wall, cut additional panels to size using your circular saw, and hang them in the same manner. Repeat the process for the other two walls around the tub, so the whole area is surrounded by wood panels with seams in a checkerboard pattern.

    7

    Measure the two vertical corners of the area and cut two corner trim pieces to size. Glue and nail them in place in the same manner as the panels, EXCEPT first drill pilot holes in the wood for the nails so the trim doesn't split. Measure the exterior edges around the outside of the paneled area, and cut bullnose trim to size. Miter at the corners as necessary. Glue and nail the trim into place, again drilling pilot holes.

    8

    Measure the longest horizontal seam from the edges of the corner trim on both sides, and cut a piece of the flat trim to size. Glue and nail it into place, with pilot holes. Repeat for the other two horizontal seams (on the other two walls), then do the vertical seams, which will each be the height of a wood panel minus half the width of the trim on either side.

    9

    Once the whole wood enclosure is up, tape newspapers all over the tub to protect it. Go over all the wood lightly with sandpaper, by hand, to buff the gloss so the second coat will stick. Wipe the wood of all dust. Apply the second coat of gloss with a brush, using slow careful strokes to avoid bubbles or drips. Let dry overnight, buff again, and apply a third coat.

    10

    Run a caulk line completely around the top and sides of the tub where it meets the wood.

How to Install Granite Tile Kitchen Countertops

Installing granite tile countertops in your kitchen is one of the surest ways to add value to your home while also updating its decor. Granite typically produces a large return on its investment, and purchasing tiles instead of a granite slab can potentially save you thousands of dollars. The average do-it-yourselfer can install granite tile countertops in the kitchen over the course of an afternoon.

Instructions

    1

    Measure, cut with a circular saw, and install a layer of plywood substrate to begin with. Screw 1/2-inch cement backer board to your plywood, and countersink the screws just below the surface of the cement board.

    2

    Cut 2-inch (or your preferred size) strips of cement board, and screw those to the edges so they are flush with the top of the cement board.

    3

    Use a sawzall to cut the area where your kitchen sink will be installed later on. Cut carefully as to not hit any cabinets below the surface of the plywood substrate.

    4

    Spread your mixed thin-set mortar, using a notched trowel, to an area on top of the cement board closest to the edge.

    5

    Lay full tiles on the outer edges, butting the tiles against each other. Overhang this row of tiles to compensate for the granite tile strips you'll add to the edges last.

    6

    Use a tile saw to cut the tiles that will be placed along the wall, around the sink cutout and the 2-inch strips along the edges. No matter what size of tiles you use or what shape you counter is, chances are you will need to cut tiles to fit in certain areas.

    7

    Apply the thin-set mortar to the side of the cement board (and wall for an optional backsplash/border), and position the 2-inch edging tiles. Make sure these strips are aligned with the tiles on top of the counter for a professional look.

    8

    Let the mortar dry for a few hours, then add grout in between the seams of the tiles with a rubber float. Wipe off excess grout with a wetted sponge, and add an optional sealer once the grout has dried to help prevent stains.

How to Drill Granite

How to Drill Granite

Granite is a beautiful and colorful rock used as a building material. It is placed as floors and countertops in kitchens and bathrooms. It is very solid and dense and difficult, yet not impossible to drill through. Granite rock has an even texture and a light color. It is mainly comprised of feldspar and quartz. Depending on the type of feldspar found in the granite, you might find the rock to be light gray, pink or dark gray. Some say that granite was solidified from molten rock, but others say granite shows little if any contact with surrounding wall rock. They determined that granite, one of the oldest known rocks on earth, gradually just came to be.

Instructions

    1

    Insert a core drilling bit into your drill motor. Do not use a masonry bit. They are not strong enough to adequately drill through granite.

    2

    Place a white bottle cap--one you would find on a medicine bottle--over the area on the granite where you will drill. The cap opening must face up.

    3

    Press a plumber's putty around the base of the medicine cap. The putty will hold the cap in place and form a damn around the cap.

    4

    Pour any type of oil into the cap up to 1/4 inch from the top. The putty will keep the oil from leaking out onto the granite.

    5

    Position the drill bit inside the cap with oil and begin to drill. Let the drill spin for 10 seconds, then allow the drill to sit in the oil and cool down for 10 seconds.

    6

    Continue drilling for 10 seconds and cooling down for 10 seconds. Alternate the procedure until you've drilled through the granite.

How to Control Tree Roots in Sewer Lines

How to Control Tree Roots in Sewer Lines

As tree roots grow, they can infiltrate residential pipes, causing clogs, backups and damage to your sewer system. Although PVC sewer lines are more resistant to root infiltration than clay tile or concrete pipes, they are not impenetrable. Remove trees and avoid planting new ones near your sewer system to prevent roots from growing into the lines. It is difficult to keep the trees and control their root growth. Cutting the roots is a form of pruning and encourages them to grow faster and stronger than before. Copper sulfate crystals introduced into the soil above the sewer lines kill existing tree roots and repel new growth.

Instructions

    1

    Contact your local sewer district or hire a plumber to plot the location and depth of the sewer lines.

    2

    Call the national before-you-dig number, 811. They will provide you with information about the surrounding underground utilities so you avoid cutting into them.

    3

    Drill a hole with a hand-operated auger. The hole should end 18 inches above the sewer pipe.

    4

    Insert a length of 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe into the hole and make a mark with the hacksaw at ground level. Remove the pipe from the ground.

    5

    Cut the pipe, an inch below the mark, with the hacksaw.

    6

    Screw a threaded female adapter with a plug onto the pipe.

    7

    Push and twist the open end of the pipe into the hole until you reach the bottom. Keep the cap flush with the ground so you can mow and walk safely over the area.

    8

    Repeat Steps 3 through 7 to continue building entry points every 6 feet along the sewer line.

    9

    Remove the plugs on the tops of the pipes.

    10

    Pour copper sulfate crystals into each pipe. Follow the manufacturer's directions for the correct amount to use.

    11

    Fill the pipes with hot water. The water dissolves the crystals to seep into the ground.

    12

    Replace all of the plugs on the pipes.

    13

    Refill the pipes with copper sulfate crystals and hot water every four months

Installing a Wall Oven

Installing a Wall Oven

Important Considerations and Warnings

    Measure the cutout dimensions of your cabinet for the built-in oven that you plan on replacing. Compare this measurement with the product dimensions.

    Ensure that the base of the cabinetry can support up to 400 pounds. Check the level of the cabinet to ensure that the installation is straight.

    Follow important safety instructions. Proper electrical grounding is necessary and must be in accordance with the local codes or with the national Electrical Code ANSI (American National Standards Institute), NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) Publication 70.

    Shut off the electrical power of the wall oven while making the line connections to prevent accidental electrocution. Disconnect the main power to the junction box before making the electrical connection. Never use an extension cord for the wall oven to prevent fire, electrical shock and other injury.

    This is at least a two-person project. Get help in carrying and maneuvering the wall oven into place. Remove the oven door, grids and grids supports for easier lifting.

Installation

    Wall Oven

    You would need a drill, screwdriver and level to install the wall oven.

    Start by installing the mounting brackets into the cabinet by drilling pilot holes where the brackets would go. Install the wall oven into the cabinet opening. Leave enough clearance, at least 1 1/2 inches, between the oven and front of the cabinet. While pushing the appliance inward, pull the armored cable through the hole in the floor close to the junction box. The electrical connections should already be in place as part of preparation steps.

    Push the wall oven in and against the cabinet until you see the side bracket clip in on the cabinet side opening. Check that the appliance is straight and level. Adjust as necessary. Then put the grids supports, grids and oven door back in place.

Checking Operation

    Remove any packing materials that may still be present inside the oven. Turn the power on. Verify that each oven control and function work properly. When testing the "Bake" function, the oven should turn hot within 20 seconds of turning it on. You should feel the heat coming from the oven when you open the door. When you test the "Broil" function, the upper element in the oven should turn red in color. If your wall oven comes with the "Convection" function, the convection fan will run. Set it to convection roast or bake to check the elements cycle on and off. The fan should stop running once you open the door.

How to Use a Digital Thermostat

How to Use a Digital Thermostat

A thermostat is a device that designates when your heater will go off. If you like your house to remain at approximately 70 degrees F, you would set your thermostat to that temperature. Whenever the temperature in the room drops below that mark, the thermostat tells the heater to begin heating the room. A digital thermostat displays the temperature in exact degrees, and allows you to control the heat in your room with ease.

Instructions

    1

    Decide what temperature you would like your home to be. If you are not sure, start out with 70 degrees F.

    2

    Press the up or down arrows, depending on what the digital thermostat is automatically set at. If you want your house to remain 70 degrees F, and it says 82 degrees F, press the down arrow 12 times. When you let go, you will see your set temperature briefly before the digital thermostat switches back to showing the current room temperature.

    3

    Press the up or down arrows to change the temperature if you are not happy with it. It will automatically switch back to showing you the set temperature, rather than the current room temperature.

    4

    Select the day or night button. If your digital thermostat has this feature, you can set one temperature for the day, and a different one for the night. Press the button that looks like a sun, then press the up or down arrows to select your daytime temperature. Then, press the button that looks like a moon and move your up and down arrows to select your nighttime temperature.

Saturday, September 7, 2013

How to Build a Raised Breakfast Bar

How to Build a Raised Breakfast Bar

A breakfast bar in a kitchen is an added feature that makes life easier. You can use it to fill the purpose the name suggests, or it can be the perfect place to entertain guests serving their favorite beverages. We will use medium density fiberboard (MDF) to construct this raised breakfast bar because it has a smooth surface, making it easy to apply a finish.

Instructions

Building the Wall

    1

    Measure the length of the existing cabinet, subtract one inch and cut three two-by-fours to that length. Lay two of the two-by-fours side by side on the table. Measure from one end and mark every 16 inches until you reach the length of the two-by-four.

    2

    Make a mark -inch away from either side of those marks. Place a carpenter's square on these marks and draw lines across the two two-by-fours.

    3

    Measure from one end of two more two-by-fours and make a mark at 42 inches. Cut these with the electric miter saw. Cut a 37-inch stud for the ends of the longer pieces and one for every mark you made in Steps 1 and 2. Place the two long pieces of lumber on top of the two 37-inch pieces of lumber and secure them with 16d box nails. Next, place a stud for every mark made and secure them with 16d nails. Place the third two-by-four on top of the wall and secure it with 16d nails.

    4

    Set the fence of the table saw at 42 inches and rip the 96-inch length of the MDF. Measure the length of the wall you built and mark it accordingly on the MDF. In addition, cut two pieces of the -inch MDF to 4-by-42-inches. If your wall is longer than 48 inches, it will be necessary to use a second sheet of the material.

    5

    Lay the stud wall down flat and place one of the pieces of material cut with the table saw on top of it. Secure it to the wall with 8d finish nails. Repeat this for the other side and the two ends of the wall. Place the wall against the back of the cabinet and secure it to the cabinet through inside back of the cabinet itself with one-inch drywall screws.

Building the Bar Top

    6

    Place the piece of MDF that is 18-by-(length of the bar)-by--inches.
    Measure the length of your wall, add three inches to it and cut the material to that length.

    7

    Apply some glue to the 1-inch side of the 1-by-18-by--inch MDF. Place them on the ends of the bar top slab and secure them with 6d box nails.

    8

    Measure the distance between these two pieces from Step 2 and cut two more pieces of the 1-by--inch MDF. Apply some glue to the 1-inch side of these and secure them between the two 18-inch pieces with 6d box nails. These four pieces create a 1-inch edge around the top.

    9

    Turn the top over so that the pieces just installed are on the bottom. Measure in 3-inches along one of the long edges and make a mark every 8-inches. Drill countersink holes on every mark. Apply glue to the top of the wall built in the previous section and set the bar top on it. Secure it to the wall through the countersink holes from Step 3 with the 1-inch drywall screws.

    10

    Fill the countersink holes with wood putty and allow it to dry before you sand it. Cover the bar top with your favorite covering that will either complement or match the existing cabinet tops.

What Is a Fireclay Sink?

Widely used in London, England, for their durability and style in the late 1800s, fireclay sinks finally have made a design comeback. Fireclay sinks are forged at extremely high temperatures, which cause the clay and glaze to unite. The result is a sink that is not only extremely durable, but also will look shiny and new for many years to come.

Significance

    The kitchen is often the central gathering place in many American homes. Between cooking, eating and socializing, countless hours are spent in the kitchen each day.
    Perhaps this is one reason why there is so much emphasis on kitchen remodeling these days. In a flooded housing market, many homeowners are choosing to update and remodel their kitchens to make their home stand apart from the rest.

    How can installing a fireclay sink help to set your house apart from the pack? Fireclay sinks can add a charming touch of ageless elegance to your kitchen. Replacing a standard stainless steel sink with a deep or large, glossy fireclay sink is a great way to create a quality focal point for your kitchen area.

Identification

    Fireclay sinks are named as such, because they are made of clay and they are fired at an intense heat of over 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. This causes the clay to become very hard, producing a durable and nonporous material that is ideally useful as sink material.

    As fireclay sinks have experienced a recent surge in popularity, many retailers have begun to offer fireclay in addition to other standard sink materials. A fireclay sink will be specifically labeled as such, so don't be fooled by imitators.

Styles

    Fireclay sinks are manufactured in a variety of colors and designs, and they come in many different shapes and sizes. One popular style is the vessel-style sink, which is often used in places such as guest bathrooms. Another popular style made of fireclay is called an apron-front or farmhouse sink, which is usually placed in the kitchen area.

Benefits

    Choosing a fireclay sink for your home may be a wise decision if you are a stickler for quality. The integrity of the fireclay material will withstand heavy use over time, and will resist scratching, staining and chipping. Fireclay sinks will not rust, fade or discolor.

Design Trends

    Long ago, fireclay sinks were used for their strong, industrial and practical capabilities. Fireclay sinks have only recently been recognized as a solid design trend. Today, fireclay sinks have become a statement piece for fine homes everywhere.

    Some manufacturers of fireclay sinks still make their sinks completely by hand. When shopping for fireclay sinks, you may notice that some of them feature hand-painted detail or craftsmanship, which may add a display of elegance to the kitchen or bathroom areas.

    The use of sustainable building and design materials is a popular trend in today's interior design scene. Manufacturers of fireclay sinks are becoming dedicated to producing recyclable sinks that also are lead-free. As the demand for earth-friendly materials is on the rise, fireclay sinks are sure to be more than just a passing fad.

Friday, September 6, 2013

How to Decorate a Fireplace With Logs

Fireplace logs are not just for burning. They can provide year-round decoration for your fireplace as well. With materials you can find in your back yard or cupboard, you can create an inexpensive display. Your fireplace then becomes an attraction with or without flames.

Instructions

    1

    Clean your fireplace thoroughly. This is especially important if the decor will remain untouched for months until the next fire season. Sweep out all the soot and ashes; wipe down the grate and the wood rack; and clean any other visible metal fixtures.

    2

    Place the logs in a pyramid in the grate. If your fireplace is small, you may only be able to fit two logs as a base and one on top. A larger fireplace may accommodate three on the bottom, two on the next level, and one on top. Make sure the logs are steady.

    3

    Put the rest of the logs in the wood rack. Line them up evenly on the side visible to most of the room.

    4

    Tie ribbon bows around the logs. By changing color, you can use ribbons all year long, not just at Christmas. Pass the ribbon around the bottom of the grate and tie a large bow with long tails near the top front of the pyramid. As an added touch, notch the tails of the bow and arrange them artistically. With the wood rack, just tie the ribbon around the logs themselves.

    5

    Add seasonal accents. Tuck a few silk poinsettia flowers into the log pyramid for Christmas or scatter seashells around or on the pyramid in summer. (Make the accents easy to remove if the fireplace will be in use.) Add one or two matching accents to the logs in the wood rack, but reserve most of the decoration for the pyramid in the fireplace.

    6

    Arrange pine cones next to and under the grate. This adds texture to your log display and tinder for lighting the fire.

Installing a Stone Tile Backsplash

Design

    Measure the area, and cut a template to create the design. It's more practical to lay out the design on a template of butcher paper on the counter or floor. You can revise the layout any number of times. It also gives you a chance to cut stone tile ahead of time. Don't forget to leave room for the grout lines. Also, select the placement of any accent tiles at this time.

Cut

    Cut the stone tiles in the design. You'll need a wet saw with a diamond blade to cut the stone. You can rent these at most home improvement stores, or tool rental stores. The wet saw uses water to cool the blade and prevent the tiles from cracking.

Lay the Stone Tile

    Start laying the stone tiles. On very tall vertical areas, you normally begin at the top, but because the area of a backsplash is short, you lay the bottom row first. Use all-purpose mastic for dark stone or white thinset for lighter stone as a base. Apply the thinset with a trowel. Leave about 1/8 inch between the bottom of the tile and the countertop. This will damage to the wall if you replace the countertop.

Level

    Press the tiles into place about 1/4 inch from where you want them. Slide them into place to make sure you cover the back of the tile adequately with adhesive, and there's a good bond. There will be some variation in the size of the grout lines if the stone tiles are slightly irregular. Use a level frequently to make sure lines are even. Insert tile spacers to keep the lines even. Clean off any mastic or thinset from the face of the tiles.

Dry and Seal

    Allow the stone tiles to dry so they're firmly in place, then thoroughly clean the faces and apply a sealer. Stone tiles have little dips and groves, and are very porous. The sealer makes removing the grout from the face an easier task.

Grout

    Lay the grout into the grout lines. If the joints are wide, add some sand to the grout to make it stronger. Wipe down the face of the tile after the grout set up for 15 minutes. Clean the faces as thoroughly as possible. The less water used the better.

Final Seal

    Wait at least a week before applying the final seal. Clean the face of the tiles again before sealing the area. Use a foam brush to apply the sealer to the entire area. Give several coats to areas that get a lot of abuse, such as behind the stove or sink.

How to Build a Plywood Countertop

How to Build a Plywood Countertop

Kitchen counters are always a focal point in remodeling a kitchen. In the past, materials used as a product for building kitchen countertop decks have varied. The best material to use is -inch plywood. One reason plywood is the best choice to build countertops is due to its durability after getting wet.

Instructions

    1

    Set the table saw fence at 26-inches. Place the -inch plywood on the table and rip it at this width. This will result in producing a piece of plywood that is 26-inch wide and 96--inch long.

    2

    Set the table saw fence at 2-inches. Rip three pieces of the plywood left over from the previous cut at this measurement.

    3

    Apply glue to one of the 2-inch sides of the 2-inch material, place it on the edge of the piece of plywood from Step 1 and secure it with the box nails. Repeat this process for the other long edge of the plywood.

    4

    Measure and make a mark at 22-inches on the remaining 2-inch strip of plywood. Place the miter gauge in the groove on the table saw, be certain it is set on 90, line your mark up with the blade and cut the piece. Repeat this process so you will have two pieces of 2-by-22-inch plywood.

    5

    Apply glue to a flat side of the 22-inch plywood, place it on one end of the plywood countertop and secure it with the box nails. Repeat this with the other 22-inch piece. Turn the top over and cover it with the desired material. Clean up excess glue immediately with a damp cloth.

How Are Electric Meters Read?

How Are Electric Meters Read?

Reading your electric meter

    It's not difficult to read an electric meter once you know how, and it only takes a few seconds. Electric meters display kilowatt-hours (kWh), which is the amount of electricity 10 100-watt light bulbs use in one hour.
    The values on the meter are cumulative, so if you live in a 40-year-old home, you will likely see very large numbers on the meter. The amount of electricity you use in a month is calculated by subtracting the value at the beginning of the month from the value at the end of the month, not by the overall number indicated.

What to look at

    There are two basic things to look at when reading the meter. The first is the silver wheel that runs horizontally across the center of the meter. This has a small section that is painted black so you can see whether its spin is fast or slow. This wheel tells you how much electricity you are using at this time. The faster it moves, the more electricity you are using.

Numeric indicators

    Above the horizontal wheel is a series of small dials that look like watch faces with only one hand. Each of these has numbers from 0 to 9 on them. Note that on every other dial the numbers increase counterclockwise. This is a function of the gearing in the meter. These dials need to be read as indicated, not as you would expect with a clockwise-moving dial. The dial farthest to the right is the lowest number. Usually, a movement of one number on the dial is equal to one kilowatt-hour used, but in some cases it is necessary to multiply this value by 10 or 100. Check your electric bill to see if there is a multiplier. Each dial to the left moves one number for each full circle of the one to its right, so a 1 on the second dial indicates 10 kWh and a 1 on the third dial indicates 100 kWh.
    The meter shown at the top of this article is showing 30084.5 kWh.

Types of Garage Doors

Garage doors can be basic or as elaborate as your budget can afford. Many styles of garage doors reflect the architecture of the home. They are designed to blend into the home design.

Sectional

    These doors are divided into sections going the width of the door. Sectionals can be opened manually or with a remote control. Having a short driveway is not a disadvantage because the door does not go beyond the frame.

Up and Over

    These doors first swing out toward the driveway, then up. They are parallel to the garage ceiling once they are completely open. Up-and-over doors require space to open and swing and are not recommended for short driveways.

Roller

    A roller door is made of narrow aluminum strips and wraps around a drum above the door opening. These doors have a remote control that can be operated from inside a car. A light is switched on inside the garage once the door is activated. These doors are space savers and work well for short driveways.

Swing Hung

    Swing-hung doors operate the same as a typical door that has hinges. They are not suited for short driveways because of the space needed to swing open the door.

Materials

    Doors can be constructed from wood, steel, fiberglass or aluminum. Careful consideration should be given to the design if the door will be showing as a major part of the home.

Thursday, September 5, 2013

How to Lay Kitchen Floor Tile

How to Lay Kitchen Floor Tile

Tiling your kitchen floor not only makes your kitchen look better, it also makes it more functional. Even better, it can be one of the easiest rooms to tile because it almost always has straight edges. While it might seem like a big project, it is well worth the time and energy put into it since tile floors can last for years. This article covers everything from how to prepare the floor, how to install backer board, how to place the tile and how to grout the floor.

Instructions

Prepare the Kitchen Floor

    1

    Remove the furniture and appliances from the kitchen. Since it may take several days before you are finished, you may want to plug in your refrigerator elsewhere or run an extension cord. Otherwise, consider this project your permission to eat out for a few days.

    2

    Pry off the shoe molding using a pry bar or putty knife. You won't need to remove the baseboards.

    3

    Remove the old flooring if necessary. You should remove flooring that is loose, cushioned or uneven. Try to avoid removing vinyl flooring since it may contain asbestos. For more information on how to remove various types of floor, a quick search of eHow should provide you with instructions.

    4

    Secure the subfloor and underlayment by driving 2-1/2-inch long galvanized screws through the floor into the joists at 8-inch intervals. To find the joists, you may need to drill small holes into the floor at 1-inch intervals starting at the wall. If the drill breaks through into hollow space, try again. Once you have located one joist, the others should be evenly-spaced either 16 or 24 inches apart.

    5

    If you will be tiling near a door, undercut the trim by placing a piece of backer board, a tile and two pieces of cardboard next to it and cutting away the trim using a jamb saw or handsaw. This will allow the tile to go under the trim rather than trying to tile around it.

    6

    Remove any loose sections of flooring and fill the spots with thinset mortar using the flat edge of a trowel.

    7

    Clean the floor thoroughly. If you are tiling over vinyl or linoleum, strip it to remove any wax residue. Use a commercial vinyl or linoleum stripper according to instructions.

Install the Backer Board

    8

    Cut and lay all the pieces of backer board leaving an 1/8-inch gap between the boards. You also need to leave a 1/8- to 1/2-inch gap between the backer board and the wall. Stagger the boards so that you never have four corners meeting at one spot. Make straight cuts using a scoring knife and a drywall saw to cut corners, circles or curves.

    9

    Label the boards so you know where to place them and set them aside so you can vacuum the floor thoroughly.

    10

    Mix the thinset mortar according to the directions. Do not try to mix too much, only what you will use up in an hour or it will dry out.

    11

    Using your trowel, spread enough mortar on the floor to place one piece of backer board. Spread the mortar using the flat side of your trowel and then comb it in one direction using the notched side held at a 45-degree angle.

    12

    Screw the backer board down by placing 1-1/4-inch backer board screws every 6-inches around the edges of the board and every 8-inches across the face of the board.

    13

    Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until all the backer board has been set.

    14

    Press adhesive-based, alkali-resistant mesh tape over the joints.

    15

    Press the mesh tape over the joints and place a light coat of thinset mortar over it using the flat edge of your trowel.

    16

    Wait a few minutes for the mortar to become firm, then scrape away any ridges and bulges over the screw heads with a putty knife.

Laying the Kitchen Tile

    17

    Do a dry run to determine the best layout for your kitchen tile. Starting in the center, place tiles on the floor using tile spacers to separate them. Your goal should be to center the tile so that there is equal spaces at the walls, providing that the spaces is at least wider than 2 inches. You should also try to place the tile so whole tile are at doorways where there is no baseboard to cover the edges. Adjust the placement of the tiles until they reach most of these requirements.

    18

    Once you have determined where the center tiles will lay, use a pencil to trace two edges of one of the center tiles onto the backer board.

    19

    Use a chalk line to draw a straight line, using the line you made in Step 2 as a guide where it should go. Make sure the line is straight and level. Repeat in the other direction. Check to make sure that the two lines are at a 90 degree angle from each other.

    20

    Mix the thinset mortar according to the label. Do not try to mix too much, only what you will use up in an hour or it will dry out. To keep the thinset from drying out, dampen the backer board with a wet sponge.

    21

    Starting at the center of the floor and working outward, lay a row of tile along your guide line. Spread the the thinset mortar using the flat edge of the trowel and then comb it by scraping the notched edge at a 45-degree angle. Make sure tiles are evenly spaced using your tile spacers.

    22

    Once you have laid out a few tiles, place a 2 x 4 piece of wood on the tiles and lightly tap it with a mallet to bed the tiles into the mortar.

    23

    Repeat Steps 5 and 6 until all the whole tiles are in place. Remove any mortar that squeezes out between tiles.

    24

    Wait for the thinset to harden. Check the guidelines on the package for an exact time.

    25

    Cut the perimeter tiles using a tile cutter or wet tile saw. For straight cuts, most tile shops and hardware stores will cut the tile for you if you bring it into them (and had purchased it there). Otherwise, the tile can be cut using a wet tile saw or tile cutter. Curved and odd shaped cuts can be made with a tile nipper.

    26

    Set the perimeter and cut tiles as you did in Steps 5 and 6. Apply the mortar onto tile if an area is too narrow for your trowel.

Grout the Tile

    27

    Wait at least 24 hours for the tile and mortar to set before grouting your tile.

    28

    Mix the grout according to directions. It should have a consistency similar to mashed potatoes.

    29

    Dip your grout float in water and apply the grout to the floor. Push the grout into the joints with the grout floor to ensure that the grout reaches the floor. Scrape off the excess grout by holding the float at a 45-degree angle from the floor.

    30

    Gently wipe the grout off the tile surface with a damp sponge. If the sponge is pulling out the grout, wait a few minutes and try again. Keep the sponge clean by rinsing it often.

    31

    Rinse the floor a second time using a sponge and water. Wipe the tile with a dry terry cloth.

    32

    Let the grout cure overnight before replacing the shoe molding. You can replace the appliances and furniture at this time or after sealing the grout in next step.

    33

    After the grout has cured for a week, seal the grout. This will help protect it from stains.