Architecture is as much of an art as painting, photography, or sculpture. It might focus more on being functional than other art forms, but design and aesthetics are important all the same. One of the great examples of how design meets functionality in architecture is the cornice. This stylistic addition has been around since ancient times and continues to grace buildings to this day.
Identification
A cornice is a horizontal extension of a wall that is usually built on the roof, but sometimes between floors of a building as well. It is usually molded and stylized to act as a decoration for the building.
Function
Besides being part of the architectural design of a building, a cornice is built to throw off or divert rainwater.
Modern Architecture
Cornices are found in older buildings or in new buildings that attempt to recapture old styles. Modern architecture has done away with the cornice and replaced it with elaborate drainage systems.
Classical Architecture
In classical architecture, the cornice was used regularly; it can be seen on temples and famous pieces of architecture, such as the Acropolis.
Naming
The cornice got its name from an Italian word, which happens also to be cornice, meaning "ledge"--a perfect example of what a cornice is.
Bed frames have been standardized to the benefit of both bed manufacturer and consumer. Nowadays when you mattress wears out and gets lumpy, you need not worry too much if the replacement will fit, for this issue has already been dealt with. However, within the various type of single and bunk beds that are on the market, there is some variation.
Significance
When designing bedrooms in a house, room size might be loosely related to bed size, for more often than not the parents' chamber is built larger than the rest of the bedrooms (and in fact, it is often referred to as the master bedroom). The eventual installation of a double-sized bed is one determining factor in the overall planning stage when you with the aid of an architect or builder are planning the size of each room.
Size
Within the United States, single beds are of one standard size, but there are a few variations that might give a consumer a several options. The standard mattress size for a single bed in the U.S. and Canada is 39 inches by 75 inches. You will find this size most commonly in a private residence. Also available is a longer-size single bed. This bed, which is 39 inches wide, has a little extra length added to push the length to 80 inches. This bed is commonly found in college dormitories and motel rooms to accommodate tall teens and larger adults. The longer version can be purchased for your home, as well. And finally, there is a "Super Single" on the market, a rather large single that is almost the size of a double. This bed measures at 48 inches by 84 inches.
Beds for Children
Single beds for children are usually smaller than the standard adult-sized bed, but not by very much. The dimensions of a narrow single bed are reduced to 36 inches by 75 inches and are readily available through out the U.S. and Canada. For most children and even some small adults, this size of bed will work out just fine. For very young children and small toddlers, you might look into beds that are specially designed with side rails that keep a small one from falling out of bed at night. It is also possible to purchase a shorter bed with guardrails that is specially designed for a young child.
International Sizes
The size of a single bed varies in different parts of the world. This is mostly a fact of curiosity unless you happen to purchase your bedding directly from a foreign country. In that case, you might find the variation to be more than expected. Roughly speaking, single beds in the United States are the largest, and those made in Latin America and Continental Europe are the smallest, where the single bed usually runs at 35 inches by 79 inches. In between are single beds from the U.K. and Australia, which measure at 36 inches by 75 inches.
Bunk Beds
If you are considering placing a bunk bed in a room to save space, you will find that these beds are sized the same as a normal single bed ( 39-by-75), but there is a smaller child's version that is a few inches narrower at 36 inches, with the same length, though. When placing a bunk bed in a bedroom, don't forget that the bed can be as much as 6 feet high, so do not place one under a low ceiling.
While many homes built in the late 19th century are simply called "Victorian," there are actually several different styles of architecture that fall under the broad category of Victorian. The era is named for Queen Victoria, who ruled England from 1837 to 1901. Usually a grand old home with lots of unique details is labeled Victorian. But defining more precise details can further categorize a home into a specific architectural genre.
Victorian Gothic (1860-1890)
The predominant characteristic of a Victorian Gothic home is its multicolored exterior. Multiple colors and textures create decorative bands that highlight arches and corners. Walls often are decorated with geometric patterns. Pointed arch windows and doors usually are associated with Gothic style elements, but the overlay of decorative effects used in the late 19th century classify it as Victorian Gothic.
Italianate
An Italianate house is square with a flat or very slightly pitched roof that is usually topped with a cupola. The roof line extends beyond the exterior walls of the house, creating wide eaves supported by brackets. Most Italianate homes feature a long porch.
Second Empire (1860-1890)
A Second Empire house is easily identified by its mansard roof, a convex or concave second or third story that is part roof, part upper floor. The style also is characterized by heavy pediments over the windows, which are sometimes grouped in pairs. The entrance is usually a set of double doors with upper panels made of glass. Bracketed cornices and decorated chimney caps are also characteristics of Second Empire.
Queen Anne (1880-1900)
Queen Anne architecture is more richly ornamented than any other style. It can best be described as "busy," utilizing many competing decorative techniques. Queen Anne homes are typically what people refer to as "Victorian." The style is characterized by towers, turrets and chimneys and is decorated with many different colors, textures and materials. Fish-scale shingles, eyelid dormers and multiple spires and finials complete the ostentatious display. Many Queen Anne houses also feature sprawling verandas, bay windows and porticos.
Chateau (1860-1890)
The typical Chateau style home is irregular and massive with steeply pitched gable or hip roofs. Dormers, tall decorated chimneys and towers are often seen. Chateau houses frequently incorporate characteristics of other styles, such as Gothic finials and Tudor arches.
Octagon (1850-1860)
The Octagon style focuses on a centrally planned home with a wraparound veranda, cupola and a raised basement. Some Octagon homes featured a domed roof. They are usually less ornamented than other Victorian styles. It was first invented by Orson Fowler, who was ahead of his time in architectural design. The Octagon style is quite rare and is not found in many communities.
There's nothing quite like a custom cabinet designed to illustrate a lifestyle. The basics of cabinet making begin with the differences between kitchen and bathroom cabinetry, which is mainly size. Base, or floor cabinets, in the kitchen are 36 inches tall, and those in the bathroom are 30 inches. The wall cabinets in either room will depend on taste and design.
Instructions
The Table Saw
1
Identifying the parts of a table saw will help you gain confidence while using one. Locate the fence, which is a bar that runs across the top of the table saw perpendicular to the front and will have a flat surface against which the material is placed. Familiarize yourself with the way it fastens into place and loosens so you can move it to the measurement you need.
2
Most table saws will have a bar on the front that the fence clamps to and will have a means for measurement. Even though these measurements are fairly accurate, the cabinet maker should double check it with a measuring tape.
3
Practice feeding wood through the table saw before attempting to cut out parts for cabinets. Once you get a feel for using the table saw, it will become one of the most important tools in basic cabinet making. With it you'll be able to cut out doors and drawer parts, shelves, face fronts, quarter-inch backing material and even molding.
Pneumatic Tools
4
Assembling cabinet parts is a snap with pneumatic tools. Make sure the setting on the air compressor matches the pounds-per-square-inch noted on the tool.
5
Next, pay close attention to the nails or staples required for the tools. In addition, be certain to use the correct length and type of staple or nail required for each step in cabinet making.
6
Place the tip of the pneumatic tool so that you know it will shoot a nail through one piece of your cabinet into another, such as when you attach a shelf to an end panel.
Cabinet Parts
7
Measuring and cutting the end panels is the first step in making cabinets. For the floor cabinets in the kitchen, cut the material 24 inches deep and 35 inches tall. Wall cabinets in the kitchen are 30 inches tall, so the measurement for the end panels will be 30 inches, with a depth of 11 inches. The floor cabinets for the bathroom end panels measure 29 inches tall and are 20 inches deep.
8
Cutting the shelves is another part of basic cabinet making. For the floor cabinets in the kitchen, the basic depth of the shelf is 24 inches, or the same as the end panel. The second shelf in the floor cabinet is either the same as the bottom shelf or half the depth. The sink cabinet does not have a second shelf to allow for the plumbing.
9
Designing the face frames is the most intricate part of basic cabinet making. The frames are built from wood that is 1 inches wide and inches thick. The face frame parts include ends, rails and stiles. The space needed for the height of the doors in kitchen floor cabinets is 21 inches and for the bathroom it is 16 inches. The space for the wall cabinet doors will be whatever the end panel height is, minus 3 inches for the rails. Stiles are used to separate the doors and drawers from each other.
10
The backs for the cabinets are cut from quarter-inch Masonite or plywood. The smooth side of the Masonite will go to the inside of the cabinet.
Hardware
11
Deciding what type of hardware you want to use in cabinet making is the biggest factor in choosing hardware. Hardware includes the hinges for the doors, the rail system for the drawers, adjustable shelf track for the wall cabinets and the knobs and pulls.
12
Installing the drawer hardware is the most difficult task concerning hardware for cabinets. There are several systems to choose from. The most common is the rail system, which includes two rails that attach to the drawer box and two that attach to the cabinet. These rails slide together and give the optimum support for the drawer.
13
Installing knobs and pulls for the doors and the drawers requires drilling holes that match the particular hardware you have chosen. Choices are wide and varied but include one of two options. These options are pulls that require more than one screw to secure it to the door or drawer. Also, find out what size drill bit you need to drill holes for the screws.
The National Agricultural Safety Database (NASD) advises the public to perform yearly maintenance on chimneys in order to prevent house fires. Over time, chimneys can become clogged by built up chemicals and ash, such as creosote. This buildup can prevent smoke from properly venting and, in some cases, even cause a chimney fire. While cleaning your chimney, keep an eye out for structural problems like warping and cracking. Periodically, it is a good idea to have a professional look at your chimney to ensure that it is still safe.
Instructions
1
Check with the manufacturer of your stove to see if there is a specific brand or design of chimney brush that will work best with your model. If not, choose one that is appropriate for the size of your chimney.
2
Open the flue and remove the damper, if your stove model has one.
3
Examine buildup (such as creosote) in order to determine which areas of the chimney will require the most cleaning. Use the flashlight if it is too dark and use the mirror to see around difficult angles. Typically, most of the buildup will be in the top third of the chimney. Keep an eye out for any bird's nests or other obstructions that may have to be removed.
4
Cover the bottom of your chimney with a tarp or plastic sheet. Some stoves allow you to disconnect the stove pipe from the chimney and then cover that opening. Others have a special access door that allows you to collect ashes and debris. Depending on your model, cover whatever opening you must in order to prevent the debris from escaping into your house.
5
Put on protective gear, such as a pair of goggles, a dust mask and gloves. Chimney dust is very irritating to the eyes and respiratory system, and can be difficult to remove from clothing.
6
Use your brush according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Vigorously brush the entire length of the chimney, making sure you spend extra time cleaning the areas that have the most buildup. If the wire brush you are using allows you to, consider adding a weight to the lower end of the brush so that you can push and pull the brush repeatedly.
7
Peel away the tarp after the dust and debris settle. Remove all loosened debris from the bottom of the chimney using a small broom and dustpan. Use the vacuum to remove any remaining dust. You will need to use a vacuum with a filter that can handle chimney dust and debris. Ordinary household vacuums typically cannot.
One of the many jobs a homeowner faces in the upkeep of a home is remodeling the kitchen. Probably the hardest task to tackle in the kitchen is building a kitchen countertop. If you have a little bit of woodworking knowledge, building a kitchen countertop will be easy. You need only follow a few simple step-by-step instructions.
Instructions
Working the Wood
1
Place the piece of 26-by-96-by--inch plywood on a worktable. Next, place the 2 pieces of 2-by-96-by--inch plywood on the same table. Apply glue to one of the 2-inch sides of the 2-inch pieces, then turn them over and line them up with the long edge of the 26-inch wide plywood. Secure the 2-inch strips with the box nails.
2
Place the 2 pieces of 2-by-22-by--inch plywood on the table. Apply glue to the flat side, turn them over and secure them on either end of the 26-inch wide plywood with the box nails.
3
Sand the edges of the plywood with the sand block until they are smooth. Fill any voids in the plywood with wood putty to ensure a solid fill.
4
Place all the pieces of 2-inch wide laminate on the plywood. Apply contact cement to 3 of the edges of the plywood with the paintbrush. Allow this coat to dry completely. Then apply a second coat of contact cement to the wood edge and the first coat to the back of the 2-inch strips of laminate.
5
Stick the long piece of laminate on the plywood first. Next, stick the shorter pieces on the sides, pushing them against the back of the long piece. Be certain that there is a good bond between the laminate and the plywood.
6
Remove the excess laminate from the plywood with a router and laminate cutting bit. Be cautious when approaching the end of the plywood, as the router can get away from you at that point.
7
Sand all the area where the router trimmed the laminate down to the surface of the plywood. Be careful to keep the sanding block level with the surface of the table.
Applying the Laminate Top
8
Clean the top of the plywood as thoroughly as possible before applying contact cement to the plywood. Pour some of the contact cement on top of the plywood and in the roller pan.
9
Roll out the contact cement that you poured on the plywood with the roller. Be certain that you spread contact cement all the way to the edges of the counter top.
10
Allow the contact cement to dry completely. Place the 28-inch wide laminate upside down on another table. Apply a second coat of contact cement to plywood. Also apply contact cement to the back of the laminate.
11
Place the -by--by-30-inch lumber on top of the plywood once the contact cement is tacky dry. Space them out evenly.
12
Place the piece of laminate on top of the lumber on top of the plywood. Be careful not to allow the laminate to make contact with the plywood.
13
Begin pulling the sticks out from the center and work your way towards the ends. Rub your hands over the surface of the laminate to eliminate air bubbles as you go.
14
Route the excess laminate off with the router and the laminate cutting bit. File down sharp edges to prevent injury. Clean excess contact cement with Naptha and a clean cloth.
A claw-foot bathtub adds antique charm to a home -- but can be very expensive. An inexpensive alternative is to buy an old painted one and restore it yourself. Rusty, unrestored tubs can be found in antique stores or at estate sales. Although you can get claw-foot tubs professionally restored, doing it yourself can save you hundreds of dollars. If restored properly, your tub's surface could last 15 to 20 years. Both painted and porcelain claw-foot tubs where produced; a porcelain tub requires liquid porcelain to refinish, something best left to professionals.
Instructions
1
Prepare the area you will be working in and yourself to safely restore the bathtub. Set up an exhaust fan to blow fumes to the outside and wear rubber gloves and safety goggles. Work in the garage or someplace with good ventilation.
2
Use the sandpaper and scrub down the surface of the tub, removing any buildup of old soap or rust. Remove as much old paint with the sandpaper as you can.
3
Apply an alkaline emulsifier to strip any remaining paint on the tub. When finished, scrub the tub with an acid-based, citrus cleanser to stop the emulsifier. Allow the citrus cleaner to sit on the tub for five minutes. Wash the tub clean with water and allow it to dry before continuing.
4
Use filler putty to patch up damaged areas near the drain or around the tub. Allow about 30 minutes for this to dry. Sand down the putty when dry then wipe out the dust.
5
Apply the bonding agent to the tub. Spread 2 to 3 oz. on a paper towel and apply it to the surfaces you plan to paint. Give the bonding agent five minutes to dry.
6
Paint your tub with EP-acrylic paint, an acrylic polymer coating that produces a tough, lost-lasting finish. You can use a sprayer to paintbrush to apply it. Apply a base coat, allow it to dry, then add a top coat. It will take up to two days to fully dry. Use ultrafine sandpaper to buff down any imperfect areas.
Pegboards are useful additions to any home. With them, you can hang tools, kitchen supplies or even creatively hang office supplies with them. Hanging a pegboard doesn't have to be difficult, but it does have to be done right to support all of the equipment it will hold.
Instructions
1
Measure the area where you will place your pegboard with a tape measure.
2
Choose the right pegboard size accordingly, and mark and cut it yourself using a jigsaw or hand saw, or ask a hardware store employee if they will cut it for you.
3
Cut out four pieces of 1x2 board, two the desired width of your pegboard and two the desired length of your pegboard.
4
Take your drill and screws, and screw the four pieces of pegboard you cut in Step 3 into a frame shape on your wall.
5
Line up your pegboard with the frame you created. You may need the help of a friend to keep it steady.
6
Use your drill to screw in the pegboard at about 15-inch intervals.
Here's a great way to save money AND add style & function to your kitchen.
Use a stainless steel kitchen cabinet handle as a hanging kitchen utensil rack.
Basically all you need is an appropriate handle and some hooks.
Instructions
1
Of course we'll start out with the handle. Choose a straight long handle like the one I used, seen here. I got mine on eBay for a steal but you can find them other places, too. Ikea has them at a good price...
It should come with the mounting hardware necessary to install it.
2
Pick up some hooks. You can find them at your local home improvement store or hardware store such as Lowe's, Home Depot, or Ace hardware. Wal-Mart might even have some. I've chosen several kinds so that all my utensils hang more evenly. I also chose all the same style utensils for a consistent look.
3
Drill through the bottom of your upper cabinet to install the handle. This way no one has to worry about ruining their backsplash.
Here you can see my handle from the underside of the cabinet.
Your island bamboo cutting-board countertop needs regular maintenance to prevent staining and warping. Before installation it should have been coated on both sides with tung oil, mineral oil or sealed with polyurethane or varnish. Tung oil is the finish of choice, with regular maintenance with mineral oil. Once your bamboo island cutting board is installed, follow these tips to maintain that beautiful finish.
Use a Cutting Board
Use a separate cutting board on top of your bamboo countertop to prevent deep cuts and bacterial contamination. A separate cutting board is easier to wash thoroughly and sanitize to prevent bacterial contamination. Chopping directly on your bamboo island countertop will scar the surface and allow bacteria to grow in the cuts.
Rub with Mineral Oil
Maintain the surface of your bamboo cutting board by rubbing it regularly with food-grade mineral oil. You can purchase special oils for this, but mineral oil is cheap and is recommended by most bamboo countertop makers. The mineral oil should be applied daily for the first week on a new countertop, then once a week during the first month, and then once a month or whenever the surface appears dry and dull. Coat all sides, top and bottom of the bamboo island surface evenly with food-grade mineral oil. Mineral oil will prevent the bamboo from absorbing too much moisture and warping or delaminating.
Prevent Standing Water
Allowing water to stand on your bamboo cutting-board surface is not recommended. Sponge it off with soapy water to clean it. Disinfect it, if needed, with diluted bleach water. Dry it off immediately, and keep it dry when not in use. The mineral-oil finish will repel water, but it will not prevent water from soaking into the surface if it is left wet for a long period of time. Excess moisture will cause the surface to warp.
The cost of Trex decking can vary, with most prices averaging twice the amount of pressure-treated wood. However, Trex is also a composite material that requires very little maintenance once it has been installed. Since pressure-treated wood decking requires staining and sealing on a yearly basis, the Trex decking may be the more cost-effective over time. Still, those consumers who are focused on a lower up front installation cost, may prefer to opt for the pressure-treated wood decking and worry about maintenance charges later.
Warranty
Pressure-treated wood decking usually carries no warranty other than the one that is offered by the installation company, but composite decking commonly includes a warranty from the manufacturer itself. In fact, companies that manufacture composite decking, boast of its durability and resistance to warping and rotting. Therefore, company's like the manufacturer of Trex, cover their building materials for periods of approximately twenty-five years from the date of purchase. However, Trex is only one of several manufacturers' of composite decking materials, so warranties will vary by company.
Safety
Trex decking offers a skidproof surface that will decrease the likelihood of injuries due to slips and falls after heavy rain or around the pool area. Unfortunately, the same can not be said for pressure-treated wood decking. Yet another advantage that Trex has over pressure-treated wood is that it won't break, split, or splinter. Homeowners will not have to worry about painful injuries while walking barefoot during the summer months.
Environmental Factors
For those who are concerned about environmental issues such as, the number of trees that are harvested for construction purposes, including the manufacture of pressure-treated wood decking materials, Trex may be a satisfying alternative. Comprised of fifty percent recycled materials, which include the use of plastic bags and leftover sawdust, Trex decking offers the look of real wood, with a less harmful effect on the environment.
Granite counters are popular in kitchens. They provide a unique, uniform surface that's clear of grout lines, and relatively easy to keep clean. Granite counters can maintain a new appearance for years if cared for properly.
Sealer
Seal granite counters after installation to prevent stains and maintain a uniformly shiny appearance. Re-seal the counter every year or two to extend its life and keep looking as good as new. A granite sealer can be found at most hardware stores or from a granite installer/distributor.
Cleaning
It is best to clean granite counters with a granite cleaner, which can be purchased at most hardware stores. However, alternate cleaning methods are used as well. Martha Stewart uses Windex and towels to clean her countertops. Dishsoap and a sponge are also fine to use. Dry the counters with a soft cloth after cleaning.
Stain Removal
While granite is very hard and scratch resistant, it can stain. When spills occur, wipe them up immediately. Red wine stains will clearly show up more on light granite than a darker granite, and should be blotted up before they penetrate into the stone. Clean greasy, oil-based spills with hydrogen peroxide or an ammonia-based cleaner and paint thinner. Bleach-based cleaners or acetone-based cleaners are recommended for ink and wine stains. Whatever the stain, the sooner it is dealt with the better. If cared for and cleaned properly, granite countertops are a beautiful, unique addition to any kitchen.
Feng shui is an ancient Chinese philosophy which, amongst other things, teaches you how to utilize the arrangement of your home furniture, the images on the walls, and the ambiance of a room to bring more balance, health and abundance to the occupant. It asks you to look at objects, the way something comes across or feels, as well as the position and quality of how the furnishings and fixtures relate to the overall space. It is simple to take an indoor water fountain and use feng shui to assist you to manifest good things in your life--well beyond just the beauteous sound of running water.
Instructions
1
Install the indoor water fountain. While the sound of running water can be a soothing, healing resonance anywhere, it is recommended to have your particular fountain, whether it is tabletop or standing, in the front room by the architect's intended front door. It makes no difference whether you use this door or not, it is still, in Feng Shui terms, one of the most auspicious areas in your dwelling.
2
Prepare to activate the water fountain using the Three Secrets Reinforcement Ritual of Intention. Feng Shui is about using the language of symbols, the subconscious mind, and the power of intention to solve problems and manifest your life dreams. Water has a potent representation in Feng Shui. It stands for abundance. A water fountain insinuates that abundance is always coming into your space and your life. Once you program this truth, that is. The ritual is simple: placement of object, visualization, and then say an affirmation. You placed the object when you decided where to put the water fountain. For a short moment, focus on the water fountain.
3
Visualize "It" already occurring. In Feng Shui, you prepare as if it has already happened. Since the water fountain stands for "abundance always coming in"--imagine abundance coming to you in all ways. Iit doesn't matter if you only see black when you shut your eyes--the key here is having a vivid mind's eye. See yourself with your arms up receiving money as dollar bills fall from the sky; see yourself holding hands with an equal soul-mate (the wealth of love); see yourself vital and happy (the prosperity of health) and so on.
4
Say out loud what you are manifesting in your life. "Now everyday, abundance comes to me in all ways." Say your affirmation in the now and present tense. It is guaranteed that you will never look at your indoor water fountain in the same way after you do this compelling procedure.
Pergo flooring is a great alternative to actual wood, and, although it is fairly easy to keep up, it still requires regular care and maintenance. It's important to keep in mind that just as water can permanently damage wood flooring, plain water--which won't do any permanent damage to Pergo floors--can make the floor look dull and hazy. So an alternate method is needed for actual cleaning. Taking preventative steps and providing a little bit of regular maintenance will allow Pergo flooring to keep a shiny, clean look for years.
Instructions
1
Keep protective mats at entrances at all times. Also use a mat or throw rug in front of the sink. These mats will protect the floor from grit being brought in from outside and from grease, water and other spills around the sink.
2
Mop the floor regularly with a dust mop. The biggest damage to a floor comes from dust and grit, and dust mopping will help protect the finish.
3
Mix 1 cup of distilled white vinegar with a gallon of water. There are products made especially for the purpose of cleaning laminate floors, but they are expensive and don't work any better than vinegar and water.
4
Dampen a cotton wet mop with the vinegar and water solution and wring out till it is just damp with no water dripping from the mop.
5
Mop the floor using the damp mop. It is best to do the entire floor each time. If you need to do some spot cleaning, mix vinegar and water at the same ratio as in Step 3 in a trigger-spray bottle, spray the spot, and wipe clean with a soft cloth.
LED light tubes are popular replacements for the long, fluorescent light tubes, as they can last much longer and don't contain toxic mercury. Most of these tubes are designed to simply fit into the fluorescent light fixtures you already have; you can just remove the fluorescents, install the LEDs and you're done. Some LEDs, however, will work better if you remove the ballasts within the light fixtures that work with the fluorescents. This requires a slight bit of electrical work to replace the bulbs.
Instructions
1
Consult with the vendor that you get the LED tubes if you need to remove the ballasts in your light fixtures. Some LEDs can still work with the ballasts of fluorescent fixtures, but might still might cause problems with the amount of power consumed.
2
Make sure the light switch has been off for at least 30 minutes to an hour. Detach and remove the acrylic (or other type material) shielding covering the fluorescent bulbs if you use such a cover.
3
Disconnect the bulbs and store them away safely. Do not throw them away or place them somewhere that they might break.
4
Open the panels to the ballasts on the light fixture. Twist the metal tabs on the edges of each panel to remove them.
5
Locate the ballast and disconnect it from the wires at both ends by removing the wire nuts or cutting the wires. Pay attention to how the wires are lined up before you cut them.
6
Connect the wires on both sides together by stripping an inch off the insulation, twisting the bare wire together and wrapping it in electrical tape. You must connect each wire to the one that was directly opposite it on the other side of the ballast. If the red and black wires looked like they were connected through the ballast, connect them now.
7
Install the LED light tubes in place of the fluorescents in the fixtures. Close up the ballast panels and replace the acrylic cover. Turn the lights on to test them.
Give your cabinets that finished look by installing a toe kick. Some manufacturers make a finished matching toe kick for their cabinets, but if yours didn't, you can use plywood and paint or stain it to match the cabinets.
Instructions
1
Measure the height and length of toe kick that you need. If the toe kick came with the cabinets, you will only need the length measurement.
2
Cut the toe kick to the measurements. You should cut the height 1/8 inch smaller than your measurement so you can fit the piece. Get a straight, clean cut on the butt ends if you have to piece them together for length.
3
Paint or stain the toe kick to match the cabinets. If you are staining, apply a good wood sealer to prevent moisture damage.
4
Screw the toe kick into the cabinet base and countersink the screws.
5
Fill in holes and any gaps at joints with a paintable wood putty or a matching stain color putty.
6
Touch up with paint on the putty and the ends of the boards. If you used stain, put a little stain on a rag and touch up areas that were cut and go over with putty.
Once any urethane adhesive has cured, it is extremely difficult to remove without damaging the surface beneath or whatever it encapsulates. It is important that if you spill urethane adhesive that you remove excess as quickly as possible before it completely dries. Here are a few things you can do to remove urethane from places you don't want it to be.
Instructions
Urethane Removers
1
Apply either a specific urethane adhesive remover solution, mineral spirits or methyline chloride to the adhesive.
2
Make certain you totally cover all of the adhesive you are removing. Protect surrounding areas from spills and splashes to prevent places becoming unglued that you don't want to come unglued.
3
Allow the solution to sit for 15 minutes and soften the dried adhesive.
4
Wipe the spot with a soft cloth to remove loosened adhesive. If the adhesive is not completely removed, repeat.
5
Gently work loose any remaining adhesive with a putty knife or flat scraper. Be careful not to damage the surface underneath. Wipe off the area with a cloth and warm water.
For More Durable Surfaces
6
Heat the adhesive with a propane torch until it softens. This way works best on metal and concrete, but cannot be done if the surface beneath the glue is fragile.
7
Insert a chisel or sharp faced tool to chip away the urethane once its temperature has been raised above the softening point.
8
Gently wipe down the area with a warm wet cloth to remove any loose residue.
Interior design and interior decorating are two separate professions that often overlap. Both are concerned with creating rooms that are functional and aesthetically pleasing. Interior designers and interior decorators must be well-versed in the principles and elements of good design, and must understand how to apply these concepts to meet the needs of clients. But while one understands the underlying structure of architecture, the other is concerned with elements of decoration.
Function
The difference between designing a room and decorating a room is influenced by function and by intent. To design a room is to consider factors such as the size of door and window openings, the placement of electrical outlets and closets, and the types of furnishings needed to meet the needs of the occupants. The design of a room is influenced by local codes, architecture and ways the room will be used. To decorate a room is to create a color palette, choose fabrics and furnishings, plan furniture arrangement and choose accessories for the space. It is no less difficult than designing a room; it is just a different step necessary to reaching the final goal of a comfortable and functional space.
Types
Interior designers are concerned with ergonomics, the relationships between humans and furniture and associated products. There are interior designers who specialize in designs for special-needs populations, senior citizens, schools and other areas in which particular needs must be met. But ergonomics are not confined to select groups. The application of ergonomics is used in all aspects of interior design. The interior decorator is less concerned with ergonomics and more concerned with aesthetic appeal of furnishings and the overall space. Decorators may specialize in single elements of decor such as color application, furniture arrangement or fabric selection. Interior decorators, however, usually are hired to redecorate an entire space, and so they must be well-versed in all the elements and principles of design.
Identification
The two professions often overlap. Interior designers are hired for redecorating projects; in this both professions share the same duties. But an interior decorator would be an inappropriate choice for a remodel or new home project. Often, architects collaborate with interior designers with whom they have working relationships. This ensures that any room design will be functional and compatible with the architecture. Interior designers in most states are required to be licensed by the National Council of Interior Design Qualification (NCIDQ). They are often members of the American Society of Interior Designers (ASID). To achieve membership and be licensed, an interior designer has attended an accredited school and obtained a degree and continues his education to maintain the license. An interior decorator need not be licensed, nor is she required to have a degree. Because the duties of an interior decorator do not involve the infrastructure of the building or residence, there is no need for licensing. There is, however, an organization that provides certification for decorators. Interior designer Ron Renner founded the Certified Interior Decorators International (CID) in 1997. Members have completed a certified program from an accredited school.
Significance
Both professions are experiencing an increase in job demand. Changes in how people live, from the need for home offices to homes that can be reconfigured for life changes, have created a need for specialists in design and decorating. People who work at home need their homes to provide appropriate space and appeal for the situation. People with extended families have specific needs for room function and traffic flow. Couples whose children are grown want their homes to reflect the change in lifestyle. For all of these reasons and more, designers and decorators are in demand.
Benefits
The cost of hiring an interior designer or a decorator may seem prohibitive for those on a tight budget. A high-end interior designer can charge as much as $300 an hour or more. But not all designers charge such high fees, and decorators can be an affordable alternative. The benefits of expert advice are many. Those with busy lifestyles who simply don't have time to plan, shop, select and oversee a large-scale home improvement project will ultimately profit from hiring an expert. Mistakes and delays are on the designer, not the client. Hiring an interior decorator to aid in a more scaled-down makeover also reduces costly mistakes. Usually less-expensive than a designer, a decorator can be hired for a one-time consultation or to oversee the project. In either profession, clients often have the option to choose from a variety of offered services. This can make their services more affordable for homeowners.
Are you planning to perform a small kitchen remodel in your home? If so, you may find yourself somewhat overwhelmed with all the little details and things to consider before you actually begin the renovation. What if you make the wrong choice? When this much money is involved, you want to make sure you do things right the first time. With a little thought and planning, you can avoid most pitfalls when the time comes. By keeping these things in mind as you plan your small kitchen remodel, you can ensure that the result is functional, elegant, and satisfying.
Instructions
1
Make your available space multitask whenever possible. If there is anything that can be hung, combined, or made to fit in a smaller space, choose that model instead. Fit cabinets against the ceiling to double the use of that space. Instead of a standalone oven, include an in-wall oven in your small kitchen remodel. For the stove, use a cooktop that can be fitted over cabinets. Use a microwave that doubles as a toaster oven. Never use two items when one can perform both jobs just as well.
2
Choose compact versions of appliances and accessories whenever possible. Use a slide out cutting board to conserve space. Use a more compact, slim model refrigerator or baker's rack. Instead of using a rolling dishwasher that can be moved around, consider a model that can be mounted under a cabinet.
3
Ensure that you have enough storage. When doing a small kitchen remodel, remember that space is extremely limited. By having sufficient cabinet, drawer, and closet space, you can remove a great deal of clutter from your work area. Store your infrequently used items and small appliances to conserve space.
4
Make sure you have enough light. Bright light can make a small space seem larger, and good light is useful when cooking. Consider overhead panel lighting, as well as a few lights hanging beneath the cabinets to create small areas of direct light for detailed work.
You can find a variety of wine glass racks in stores, but due to the varying shapes and sizes of many glasses today, it can be difficult to find the perfect rack. Putting together your own rack is relatively quick and easy. This will allow you to create the perfect display for your individual collection of stemware.
Instructions
Measuring Your Supplies
1
Count and measure your wine glasses. You will need to know the width of the base of the glass, the stem of the glass and the cup at the widest place.
2
Measure various wire glass racks. These can be found at most hardware stores as well as online. You will need to make sure that the stem of the glass will fit in the rack, and that the base of the glass is wide enough to keep it from falling.
3
Calculate how many glasses will fit in each rack. Allow for at least half an inch between glasses to ensure that they will not fall.
4
Calculate how large the base of your rack needs to be. This will depend on how long your wire rack is, and how many racks you will need to accommodate all of your glasses.
5
Determine how many screws you will need. Depending on the style of wire rack you choose, you may need two or four screws per rack. You will also need screws to attach the bracket to the shelf and to the wall.
Building Your Wine Glass Rack
6
Paint your shelf. The glass racks will be attached to the underside of this shelf. The top will be free for other items. Select a color that complements your home decor.
7
Prime the brackets. You may want to select decorative brackets to attach your shelf to the wall.
8
Paint the brackets. You may want to select a complementary color to that of the shelf, or you may choose to have them match.
9
Affix the wire racks to the underside of the shelf. Measure carefully as you do so to ensure that your glasses will not be too close, and will fit comfortably in the rack.
10
Attach the brackets to each end of the shelf.
11
Find a stud in the wall, and hang your wine glass rack using the brackets.
A rat infestation can cause serious damage to your home, as well as a health risk to your family. There are measures you can take to reduce the risk of inviting rodents into your home and limit their effect if they do get inside.
Identification
There are two major types of rat in the United States. The Norway rat is a large, stocky rodent with a grayish belly, blunt muzzle, short ears and a tail that is shorter than its body. It usually lives in the basement or ground floor. The roof rat, also known as the black rat, is a smaller, sleeker animal with a gray to white belly. Its tail is longer than its body, it has a pointed muzzle, and its ears are longer than those of the Norway rat. It usually nests in attics, walls, cabinets and other elevated or enclosed spaces.
Sanitation/Rat-Proofing
Sanitation is essential to eliminating a rat infestation. Remove garbage and debris regularly and keep garbage in containers with tight-fitting lids. Feed your pets only what they will eat in one meal and store pet food in rodent-proof containers. You can also take steps to rodent-proof your home. Build a tight-fitting cover for the crawl space under the house; seal all openings around pipes, cables, and wires that enter the house through a wall or the foundation. Keep your window screens in good repair and install screens over your dryer vents. Cover rooftop plumbing vents with screens if they are more than 2 inches in diameter.
Control
If you have found evidence of rats inside your house, the best method of control is trapping. Rat bait is not recommended, as a baited rat may get inside a wall and die, causing a foul stench. You also risk your pet or a child getting into the bait with tragic consequences. Bait your rat traps with nuts or dried fruit and fasten the bait securely to the trigger with thread or fine wire. Do not use soft baits like peanut butter, as the rats can take it without triggering the trap. You can make it easier to catch rats by leaving the trap unset long enough for the bait to be taken once or twice; this gets the rats accustomed to the trap and increases the likelihood of catching them when you do set it.
Norway Rats
Trap locations will depend on the type of rat you are having trouble with. To catch Norway rats, set the traps close and at right angles to walls, with the trigger end nearly touching the wall. Other good places to trap Norway rats are behind objects, in dark corners and anywhere you've seen droppings or other signs of the rats' presence.
Roof Rats
To catch roof rats, set traps in off-ground locations; if possible, set them along the routes between the rats' nests and food source. Ledges, shelves and pipes are good locations for trapping roof rats. You may need to fasten the traps down with screws or wire in some of these areas.
Bonnet roofs, although an unusual type of roof style, are a good choice for a home with a large, open-sided porch. Bonnet roofs are particularly popular in the French Vernacular style of architecture.
Identification
Bonnet roofs are a modification of hip (also known as "hipped") roofs. In hip roofs, unlike gable roofs, all sides of the roof slope down to meet the walls of the house. Because of this, all the walls in a house with a hip roof are the same height. Bonnet roofs are characterized by two slopes on all four sides of the structure, with the upper slope much steeper than the bottom slope. The bottom slope is often used to cover an open-sided porch that surrounds the building and is useful in shielding the house from bad weather or heat. Because this bottom portion of the roof looks like a large eave, bonnet roofs are often referred to as a "kicked eaves" roof, and give the house a visored look.
Features
Bonnet roofs share many of the advantages and disadvantages of other types of hip roofs. For instance, hip roofs are excellent choices for houses in areas that experience high wind or hurricane conditions because they are less likely than gable roofs to be severely damaged or ripped off. They also provide more shelter from the sun and rain and are easier to attach gutters to. However, houses with hip roofs have less internal roof space so that maintenance can be difficult and attic storage space is greatly decreased.
Types
Bonnet roofs are only one modification of the typical hip roof. Other types of hip roofs include the simple hip roof, the pyramid hip roof, the cross hipped roof, the half hipped roof, and the dutch gable (actually a mix of both the gabled and hipped roof). Like the bonnet roof, all of these roofs have sides that slope directly down to meet the top of the building's walls.
Significance
Bonnet roofs are a major component of French Vernacular architecture, a style of architecture that reflects the influences of the Cajuns and the Creoles in the late 1700s. French Vernacular is found mainly in Louisiana and in towns that sprang up along the Mississippi River in the 18th century. The Cajuns were descended from Canadians that settled in Louisiana in the 1700s; the Creoles were descended from people of European ancestry in the Mississippi Valley, West Indies and Gulf Coast.
History
In the past, a variation of the bonnet roof style was used extensively as a popular style of roof for greenhouses. These roofs were used in Germany and Poland in the mid 1700s since they provided protection from the cold and rain during bad weather while reflecting and magnifying the sun's rays onto the plants within the structure during good weather.
Making your home green simply means making it more friendly for the environment. It is a conscious decision not to waste energy and to begin doing your part to help out the planet. The best part is that you will actually save money when you start making your home a little greener. You can go crazy and implement all of the steps at once, or you can take them one step at a time.
Instructions
1
Remove all of your regular light bulbs and replace them with compact fluorescent energy-saving light bulbs. These light bulbs use 3/4 less electricity than regular light bulbs, and they can last up to seven years. Initially, the light bulbs may cost you a few extra dollars to install, but in the long run they will save you a lot of money.
2
Purchase a low-flow shower head for each of the showers in your home. This shower head just screws on, so it is a very easy project to take on. The shower head will regulate the flow of the water, so you don't waste any. This saves water, energy and money.
3
Unplug all electronics and appliances in your home when they are not in use. You may think you are not using any energy when your appliances and electronics are not on, but that is wrong. Any device that is plugged in is using some kind of electricity. It is best to unplug appliances when you are finished using them. This only takes an extra second of your time, and it is well worth it in the end.
4
Adjust your thermostat. Start keeping the thermostat two degrees lower than normal in the winter and two degrees higher in the summer. It is such a slight change that you probably won't even notice. You also will want to turn the thermostat down when you are going to bed for the night, or when you are planning on being away from your home for more than two hours. This will drastically save you energy and money on your heating bill.
5
Swap your appliances for some that contain an Energy Star rating. This means the appliance has passed many tests that prove it saves on the amount of electricity needed to run it. It is a great way to make your home green.
6
Start using solar panels to get your energy from the sun instead of the electric company. If you decide to install all the necessary solar panels at once, it can be a little expensive. There is another option, however. Add a few new solar panels each year until you have enough to provide all of the energy your home needs.
7
Have an energy test done on your home, so you can find out where air is escaping from the home. Then take the time to plug up those areas so you are not wasting heat in the winter or air conditioning in the summer. You also will be able to tell if your insulation is doing a good job, or whether you need more of it.
Maybe you remember your parents yelling, "Turn off the lights." Now that you pay your own utility bills, you understand. This old-time advice our parents lived by and the modern trend of living green fit together nicely. Embrace them to save money on your monthly utility bills.
Instructions
1
Replace your light bulbs with bulbs labeled Energy Star. This lighting uses 75 percent less energy than standard bulbs and lasts up to 10 times longer.
2
Save money on utility bills by turning the TV off when you aren't watching it and powering down computers and monitors when not in use. Both of these are energy-hungry electronics and the minutes -- and dollars -- add up.
3
Install a programmable thermostat if you have trouble remembering to reduce the heating and cooling when you go to bed. After a few months, you will have paid for the thermostat, and you'll see savings month after month.
4
Close off the vents in unused rooms. Heating and cooling them just costs you money.
5
Adjust to a somewhat higher temperature in the summer and a somewhat lower one in the winter, even during the day and set your thermostat accordingly. Just a few degrees make a difference. Put on a sweater and some socks and have a cup of hot tea in the winter; make it iced tea in the summer.
6
Save all your baking for the wintertime. Enjoy salads, sandwiches and microwave dishes during the warm months.
7
Install radiant barrier as an economical way to reduce heating and cooling costs. This reflective material is generally used in an attic over insulation or under the roof. Some homeowners and renters use radiant barrier on unused windows to save additional money on utility bills.
8
Check how much energy your freezer and refrigerator are using at energystar.gov and determine if replacing them with newer models will save you money. As a guideline, Energy Star standards and practices have changed significantly since 2001 with at least a 40 percent savings since that time.
9
Fix or replace any poorly sealed areas around windows, major appliances and doors for a decrease in utility bills. Most DIY repairs of this type are simple and inexpensive.
10
Take short showers instead of baths. If you don't believe it makes a difference, put the plug in the bathtub when you take a shower and check the water level. It'll be lower than you expect. Replace the shower nozzle for additional energy savings.
11
Clean or change air filters once a month to reduce energy costs and keep your environment cleaner.
A well-made roof can add to the overall look of your home. And, depending on the structure, it can also add space to the attic. Finding a trustworthy contractor will be worth your time, as he will be able to advise you on the materials that are best suited for the weather conditions in your area. Roofs are made up of the following parts.
Dormer
A dormer is built around a window and projects from the roof. It is often used in attics to add light and a pleasing design to the house.
Roof Truss
A truss is a triangular wood structure that supports the roof and gives it added strength. It takes several trusses to build the structure that supports the roof.
Rafter
A rafter is a parallel beam that supports the roof, and is part of the truss. They are the main frame of the roof.
Sheathing
Sheathing, also called decking, covers the rafters, and tar paper is laid on top of it. Plywood is the most common material used for decking. Once the tar paper is installed to the sheathing, shingles are nailed to the roof.
Underlayment
Tar paper is the more common term for underlayment. Tar paper protects the decking from moisture and other weather elements.
Drip Edge
A drip edge is constructed at the bottom of the roof. It is designed to direct water to run off and away from the home.
A picture windows is designed to provide an open, unimpeded view to the outside, as if framing a picture. This window style, usually found in living rooms, brings natural light into the home while highlighting an outdoor view.
History
Throughout the 19th century, improvements in the flat-glass manufacturing process brought down fabricating costs and allowed manufacturers to increase the size of windows. During this period, small, single-family homes were the cornerstone of middle-class life. The picture window allowed home owners the feeling of spaciousness which was in direct contrast with actual home dimensions.
Function
The picture window is a large, fixed, usually single-paned window. It provides a broad unimpeded outside view, as if framing a picture.
Features
To improve energy efficiency, high solar gain glazing is a choice for cold climates while low solar gain glazing performs better in warmer climates. Picture windows are inoperable; this feature makes them appealing to individuals with allergies who must limit the amount of airborne contaminants within their home.
Considerations
Picture windows can be an attractive feature in a home. Before installing a picture window consider price, personal aesthetics, surrounding architecture and weather conditions.
Benefits
A picture window allows in a lot of natural light. This feature also can highlight an attractive outdoor view while providing a modern and contemporary look to the home.
Resurfacing a kitchen counter can freshen up a dull kitchen, create a whole new look or cover up countertop flaws such as burn marks and scratches. Homeowners have lots of choices in a wide price range. High-end products like granite and marble shouldn't be laid down on existing countertops. Most of the following methods to resurface a kitchen counter don't require major disruptions to your daily kitchen routines and can be accomplished in an afternoon.
Instructions
1
Scrub the countertop with a heavy-duty detergent. Let it dry and then sand it lightly. Even out any flaws that create dips or mounds in the surface. Use a stiff brush to remove any debris from the sanding process and wipe down with a damp cloth.
2
Resurface the countertop with ceramic tile. Choose colors and patterns that complement your kitchen decor, or create a mosaic with patterns and inlays. Make sure you use waterproof grout.
3
Buy self-sticking laminate at the home improvement store. Measure carefully and cut it to size. Apply it to the plywood and use long leftover pieces to do the sides. If you don't have long pieces, you can buy matching strips especially for this use. Carefully file the edges.
4
Paint the counter with melamine, laminate or enamel paint. Use high-adhesive primer as the first coat, then apply several coats of paint. Try your hand at creating a granite-like look with sponge painting on the first coat. If you're happy with it, use it on the final coat. Finish with several coats of polyurethane.
5
Cover the countertop with peel and stick floor tiles. They come in a number of styles that mimic granite, wood or tile. Lay out the pattern before you begin cutting the tiles. This surface is not safe for cutting or for hot pots and pans.
6
Use concrete to create a sturdy, industrial look. Concrete can also be patterned with glass or mosaic inlays and polished to a high gloss. This project should not be attempted by a novice do-it-yourselfer.
Outdoor tile, although similar to indoor, is very different in two ways. First, it is thick enough to withstand greater forces, and, secondly, its surface can hold up against the weather. Although there is a long process in itself in selecting outdoor tile, it is done in very much the same way as any other, with the exception listed above. Selecting outdoor tile isn't difficult, and, with a little help, it can be done with confidence.
Pourous Pavers
Brick paver tiles are some of the most widely used outdoor tile. Very much like a full size solid brick, they differ only because they are only 1/2 to 1 inch thick. They can hold up to almost any force or impact, however, as with any tangible object, they can still sustain some amount of damage without proper care.
Glazed Tile
Glazed tile are commonly used indoors. They are rarely used outside because their surfaces are slick and dangerous. With that said, there are exceptions when the homeowner may want to use these tile on exterior walls or surfaces. They can be used on outdoor floors, however, if safety is a premium, then their use should be limited to areas where traction isn't an issue.
Quarry Tile
Quarry tiles or Mexican tiles are very common across the world. They come in 8-by-8 pieces that are 1/2 inches or thicker. The color is usually limited to red or brown, but, if you are considering a southwestern appeal, then these tiles are a great selection. Their surfaces are not as porous as brick tile, however, they will still provide ample traction for walking.
The right home bar can become a focal point for parties and social gatherings in your house. The top of that bar can make all the difference, so chose a top that will accentuate your current decor and capture the essence of the environment you are trying to create. Stainless steel, tile, and good old-fashioned wood bar tops are all fairly easy to build and functional.
Instructions
1
Cut your bar top. Figure out the size and shape of your top. The materials noted above are for a bar top 4-by-8 or smaller. If you want a larger top, modify these instructions to fit the size top you'd like. First, affix your two sheets of plywood together and glue them with Liquid Nails. Allow them to set for 24 hours using vice clamps and wood screws to hold them together. Mark your plywood with the pencil. Make a chalk line on the plywood where you're going to make your cuts. If your cuts are straight angles, you can easily make those cuts with a circular saw. If you want more round features, use a jigsaw.
2
Place your bar top on top of the bar and screw it down. When you're done, the bar top should be firmly fixed to the lower bar frame. Trim the bar top edge so that the edge is sharp all the way around.
3
Place your tiles so that you can get an idea of which ones you can affix without cuts. Unless you are laying out a perfect rectangle the shape of your bar top, you can assume there will need to be some tiles cut. Place them on how they will look and denote the tiles that need to be cut by putting a mark through them where the tile goes off the bar top. Once you've got all your tiles in position and know which ones need to be cut, you can cut them with a tile cutter. If you don't have a tile cutter, have the tile cut for you by a professional.
4
Apply a thin layer of mastic to the bar top. Set the tile in 2-by-2 sections before the mastic dries out. Eye up the tile, if you are skilled, when you set it. If you are a novice, use tile spacers, which can be purchased at a hardware store and will allow you to evenly space the tile with ease. Let the mastic set for the recommended time.
5
Grout your tile. Mix the grout into the cracks between the tile, allow it to dry and wipe the tile clean. Water-proof the grout since the bar top will see a lot of moisture and could wash out. Mix the grout properly or it will flake out, and you'll have to start over.
6
Trim the edge of the bar. Use a material that fits the width of your bar (somewhere around 3 inches). You can find quality trim boards at the local hardware store. Corrugated metal may also make for a nice accent to the tile top. Tile will also work well as a border.
Welding aluminum is unlike welding other materials, such as iron. You will need to take more time to prepare the materials if you want a clean, strong weld, and your welding technique will need to be modified as well. In some applications, you may need to pre-heat the metal prior to welding. Although it takes more prep time and a different welding style, with a little practice, you can achieve a clean and solid weld on a piece of aluminum.
Safety First
When welding any type of material, wear all needed safety gear. This includes gloves, hearing protection and a heavy apron to protect your body from hot splatter. Wear eye protection to shield your eyes from thermal burns. Make certain the work area is well ventilated in order to remove the fumes generated when welding. As an added precaution, keep your face away from the fumes as much as possible.
Material Preparation
Prepare the aluminum. The first step in this process is to clean away any lubricants. Next, remove the aluminum oxide from the surface of the metal with a metal brush. Brush in only one direction, and do not use a brush that has been used on other materials. It is necessary to remove the aluminum oxide due to the vast differences in melting points for the aluminum oxide and the base aluminum. While pre-heating is not generally necessary, if you are welding two pieces of different gauge aluminum, preheating can help prevent some problems. If you pre-heat the aluminum, do not exceed 230 degrees F.
Welding Technique
Aluminum has a much higher thermal conductivity than other materials; higher amperage and voltage is required to achieve a solid weld. Weld at a fast pace to keep the weld smooth and even. With materials such as iron, it is normal to pull the weld toward you. When welding aluminum, always push the weld away from you. Attempt to keep the welding tip at a 10-to-15 degree angle for best results. The keys are to weld hot, weld fast and push the weld away from you. This will result in a solid weld that's clean and strong.
A hydraulic spool valve is a switching device used to control hydraulic devices. Spool valves are used in everything from automotive power-steering systems to cranes. A spool valve can turn the flow of hydraulic fluid from a hydraulic pump to an actuator on and off by blocking off the route the fluid takes.
Hydraulic Spool Valve Structure
A hydraulic spool valve is a cylinder inside a sealed case. It usually has valves leading to the pump and the tank on one side, and valves leading to one or more hydraulic devices on the other side. Pressure can flow into the valve from the pump into the hydraulic devices, or drain out of them back into a hydraulic storage tank. A controller moves the valve back and forth in its case to slide the spools into different positions. The position of the rotor will only allow the hydraulic fluid to flow in one direction to perform a specific task.
Moving a Hydraulic Piston
Hydraulic spool valves can be used in many different ways to perform many different functions. One of the most common uses is to drive a pressurized hydraulic piston. The piston is sealed in a cylinder with a valve on either end, both leading to the the spool valve. When the spool valve is set in the "push" position, fluid flows from the pump into the bottom of the cylinder while the fluid in the top of the cylinder is allowed to flow out into the hydraulic tank. This pushes the piston out. When the valve is set in the "pull" position, fluid flows into the top of the cylinder and out of the bottom, causing the piston to pull back into cylinder. Check out the link below to see a spool valve moving a piston.
Ceramic tile counter-tops evoke a sense of luxury in the kitchen. Installing ceramic tile starts with building a mortar bed. You can install a mortar bed for your kitchen counter-tops yourself. It doesn't take a lot of technical knowledge; it just takes time and patience.
Instructions
1
Install plywood counter-top base. Lay a base of inch plywood for the bottom layer of your counter-tops. This is what you'll build your mortar bed upon. Make sure the plywood is level.
2
Mark placement of the sink. Use the manufacturer's template and trace a line on the plywood indicating where the sink will be placed. Cut out sink hole. This area will not be tiled or mortared.
3
Install roofing felt. Lay roofing felt over the plywood base and extend it up the back wall the desired depth of the finished mortar bed. Tape in place on wall. Let the excess roofing felt hang over the front edge of the counter-top. Pay special attention to the inside corners; fold the roofing felt and staple the corners flat. Mark the outline of sink hole with chalk or grease pencil.
4
Install reinforcing fabric. Lay 2.5 pound metal wire reinforcing fabric on top of roofing felt. Secure to plywood base and roofing felt with inch heavy duty staples applied 6 inches apart in all directions. Leave a inch gap between reinforcing fabric and the back wall. The reinforcing fabric should not extend beyond the front edge of the counter-top.
5
Install cap strip. A cap strip is a strip of wood applied to the front vertical edge of the counter-top. It's height is equal to the thickness of the plywood plus the height of the desired finished mortar bed. It serves as a height guide when applying the mortar bed and also stops the mortar from spilling over the edge. Apply the cap strip even with the bottom of the vertical front of the plywood base. Insure that the cap strip is level and then secure to plywood base using 1 inch galvanized screws.
6
Mix mortar. Mix one part Portland cement, one part lime, and seven parts damp sand. Thoroughly mix these ingredients before adding water. Add water a little at a time until mortar is stiff, but not dry. To test for the correct amount of moisture, run a trowel through the mix. If the indentation remains without the mixture filling the indentation, the mortar is the proper consistency.
7
Apply mortar base. Apply a thick layer of mortar to the counter-top. Thoroughly and completely cover the reinforcing wire. Spread the mortar about inch beyond the marked sink opening.
8
Apply deck mortar. Mix one part Portland cement and 4 parts damp sand. Add a very small amount of water and mix well. If the sand is damp enough, do not add water. Deck mortar should be dry. Squeeze a handful. It should stick together and your hand should not be wet. Apply the mortar up to the height of the cap strip and then cover the cap strip with mortar. Periodically lay a level to insure that this layer of mortar is level. Allow to dry for 24 hours. Trim away excess roofing felt.
9
Install tile. Once the deck mortar has dried, apply a layer of thin-set mortar and lay your ceramic tiles in the design of your choice.
Wall cabinets can add a lot of character to a kitchen. They offer convenience and an aesthetic value that can light up a room. Whether it's reaching for a favorite coffee mug, hanging up a jacket or putting away an oil can, wall cabinets have importance in many aspects of a house.
Function
The main function of wall cabinets is to store items in an easy-to-reach, eye-level location. They can hold any number of items including pots, pans, dishes, bowls, canned goods and boxed and bagged foods.
Types
Other than the typical kitchen wall cabinets, here is a list of some other varieties and their descriptions:
Bathroom cabinets. These are specifically designed to hold personal items such as toothpaste, hair gels and mouthwash.
Display cabinets. These are usually hung in a living room or kitchen to display fine china, plates, awards or art work.
Utility cabinets. These are usually found in basements and garages and are used for the storage of hand tools, rags, paint and fasteners.
Wine rack cabinets. These cabinets store vintage wine bottles, glasses and cork screws.
Coat rack cabinets. These are large with hooks in the back to hang coats; sometimes they come with extra storage space for hats and gloves.
Compact disc or music cabinets. These are characterized by the little grooves running horizontally to slide CDs into.
Features
Most wall cabinets are made out of oak, cherry, maple, walnut or pine. They can be stained, varnished, painted or unfinished. The color of the cabinets depends on the wood being used and the type of stain or paint. There are some cabinets that are even made out of sheet metal.
Wall cabinets are fastened together through their face frames and are secured to the wall with heavy-duty screws. Most wall cabinets have multiple shelves inside except for smaller sizes.
Identification
A key cabinet organizer is a wall cabinet that is specifically designed to store keys. It is made out of wood or sheet metal and can store more than 200 keys at one time. The cabinet itself usually has a lock with two keys and it also has a numerical index with matching key tags.
Size
The size of cabinets can vary. The standard width of wall cabinets can range from 9 to 48 inches. This is measured off in 3-inch increments. The heights of wall cabinets have two determinations. Above sinks and stoves, the standard heights are 12, 18 and 24 inches. The standard heights for above counter tops are 30, 36 and 42 inches. Full-length, tall cabinets come in 84, 90 and 96 inches. The standard depth of wall cabinets is 12 inches. Cabinets can be built to special sizes as well.
You've bought some cabinets for your garage or kitchen, and now you're scratching your head. How do you get the dang things to hang up there? Hanging a cabinet on a wall isn't too difficult; all you'll need is some common household tools and a buddy to help you out.
Instructions
1
Measure a line where you want the bottom of the cabinet; use a level to be sure it is straight.
2
Locate the wall studs with a stud finder and mark each location with an "X" 1/2 inch below your bottom line.
3
Raise the cabinet to its future location, using the bottom line as a guide. Align the brace boards on the back of the cabinet with the stud "X" marks below the bottom.
4
Drill pilot holes through the brace boards and into the wall, making sure you hit the studs behind. Drill two holes for each brace, equal distance from the bottom and top and equal distance from each other.
5
Hang the cabinet, using wood screws through the pilot holes and making sure the screws are attaching to the studs. Your cabinet is now ready for use.
A kitchen that has no built-in cabinets has the advantage of appearing larger and more open that a kitchen with multiple cabinets. Planning a cabinet-free kitchen takes some time and careful planning. You will need to consider storage space for what would usually go into cabinets and what to put in the place of where the cabinets once were. Many cabinet-free kitchens lack upper cabinets attached to the walls, while they may still have "storage cabinets" under the counters. Planning is important and needs to be done properly. There are a few things to consider before going cabinet free.
Instructions
1
Look around the kitchen. If there are cabinets that you need to remove, you will need to plan the removal steps. Removal includes emptying the cabinets and unscrewing and pulling out any nails and screws holding the cabinets to the wall. You will also need to plan for prying off cabinet pieces and repairing any damage done to the wall after removal.
2
Decide how you will store the things that are currently in your cabinets--for example, open shelving, baskets, etc. If the kitchen will retain lower cabinets, plan out storage spacing to make sure there is enough room for all the items.
3
A china cabinet, either in the kitchen or a nearby room, can store plates, silverware and other kitchen supplies. If you have a pantry, see if you can rearrange that space to store more items.
4
Measure the entire kitchen. Record dimensions and measurements of spaces where shelves or storage furniture will be placed, and measure any pieces of furniture you will be using, such as a china cabinet.
5
Draw a layout of the kitchen and write the measurement of each wall on the layout. Write additional measurements for shelving within the drawing. Draw items that will remain in the kitchen such as refrigerator, table, and stove. The drawing does not have to be highly detailed, but it should be accurate in terms of the measurements.
6
Estimate the cost of the cabinet-free kitchen remodeling. If there are no existing cabinets to remove, the cost may be lower. You will need to consider the costs of any tools you need to rent or purchase as well as building supplies such as strong shelving and any new furniture. Also added in the cost will be any labor you hire to do the project if you do not do it yourself. Paint and decor accents on newly bare walls should be considered in the pricing as well.
Spiral staircases are considered an architectural work of art. Steep and compact, they serve a purpose to be used as a stairway in a home or office that does not have space to devote to a large, full size staircase. For the purpose of this article, the information given is concerning spiral staircases located within small homes.
Significance
Spiral staircase designs have been used in buildings and churches for centuries, creating a seemingly impossible masterpiece of construction. In the case of a two-story home with limited floor space, a spiral staircase is attached to an opening in the top floor. In comparison to a traditional flight of stairs which requires room to descend gradually, a spiral staircase is simply compacted into a vertical spiral.
Function
Spiral staircases are compact, which means that they can be placed in a corner of a room if space is limited. Spiral staircases are also frequently used for fire escapes on the exterior of apartment buildings.
Considerations
Due to the compact size of the spiral staircase, it should not be used in an area where you plan to move heavy objects to and from on a regular basis. Consider a spiral staircase as a second stairway or a staircase that is used to get to a loft or basement that is not frequently used.
Misconceptions
Spiral staircases are narrow and steep. Even though they can be used within the confines of limited space, it is a common misconception to believe that they are safe for small children or the elderly.
Warning
Narrow spiral staircases can be dangerous for someone who is not steady on his feet. Commonly, spiral staircases are made of iron and are equipped with handrails on both sides. However, the steps are narrow and close together, posing as a potential safety hazard if a person misses a step.
There is something about the warm glow of a firm hardwood staircase. The smooth steps and countless designs have morphed over the years to include an array of hardwoods and construction techniques. Though slightly more expensive than most carpeted stairs, hardwood staircases give any home or building a finely crafted and handsome touch not to mention a higher resale value.
History
Hardwood staircases have been a beautiful element in homes, buildings and even cruise ships for some time now. According to Stephen Calloway's architectural encyclopedia The Elements of Style the common use of wood plank flooring was not until the Colonial era in the 1600's. Simple designs turned into elegant ones involving French parquetry in the Baroque era beginning in 1625. Hand chiseled and oiled stair designs were seen only in the wealthiest homes at the time. It was not uncommon to see an average home's staircase to be composed of off width boards nailed to the joists. Wood floors and staircases were not mass produced until the onset of the American Victorian era around the 1840's. Construction, design and finishes were improved upon over the years. In the 1930's polyurethane became the ideal finish and widely replaced wax finishes. The carpet boom after WWII sadly left many beautiful wood floors and stairs covered and forgotten. Today many wood staircases are prefinished but there are still some truly unique and timeless hardwood designs out there.
Function
Hardwood staircases function like any other staircase as a means of transport from one elevation to another usually indoors in a house or building though some have been used on large cruise ships. The special function of a hardwood staircase is its ability to create a natural and sturdy stair bringing the strength of the outdoors inside.
Types
Many classic designs have been used for centuries though there are three main types of hardwood staircases. These are straight, curved and spiral. The type of wood used depends on how much a homeowner would like to spend and if they are concerned with using an eco-choice of wood, meaning choosing a highly renewable species. Red and White Oak are the most abundant American Hardwoods, most able to regenerate themselves. Following are Poplar, Maple, Ash, Cherry and Alder among other woods.
Features
Some have hardwood balusters and newel posts to match and some have metal handrails and balusters. The structure of a staircase itself is composed of the rise, run, nosing extension, and width of the steps. Some staircases have open risers creating a look of floating while others are completely solid wood. Staircases that have been refinished as a hardwood staircase are fitted with over-planks.
Size
Most are about 3 feet wide, but many modern stair cases are built 4 feet or wider. Some are separated by landings if they need to change direction or if there are lots of steps. When building a new home the building codes for staircases should be carefully reviewed for safety purposes.
Prevention/Solution
According to the American Hardwood Information Center you can extend the life and character of a hardwood staircase by conducting general care. This can include, wiping them down to prevent dust buildup, using fine sandpaper to remove built up grime from rails or steps and topping with a fresh coat of varnish and repairing any loose boards which may cause squeaking. Many choose to refinish a staircase that has previously been carpeted. Restoring a staircase is a solid option for transforming any set of stairs. There are many companies who offer this specific service though some choose to do the handiwork themselves.
Xenon is a great choice in under cabinet lighting for your kitchen. It has many advantages over others such as: long life, low UV, no high pressure dangers around food, high quality of light, dimmable, touchable, and they have a high tolerance of unstable voltage.
Instructions
1
Purchase the electrical components for your project: light rails, wire, transformer, and switch. Choose a reputable dealer who can help you make all the right choices for your needs.
2
Choose an good place for your transformer: Out of the way yet accessible, and safe from electrocution hazards such as water. As you can see here, I placed mine on top of one of the cabinets. There, it is concealed by the cabinet's decorative molding.
3
Choose a switch and an appropriate place to install it. I've got a low-voltage dimmer switch for my kitchen. It's great to be able to adjust your lighting with one of these, plus they're cheap and you can find them at any home improvement or hardware store like Lowe's, Home Depot, or ACE Hardware.
I put it IN my exhaust hood above the stove; it was easy to access for installation and later use, and out sight, and safe from water.
4
Use the manufacturer's hardware to install the light rails. Wire them according to directions. Use the right tool for the job. Different connectors are appropriate for different applications; they must be rated for their intended use. Make sure all connections are secured out of the way for safety!
