How to Inlay Tile Into a Wood Countertop

Installing tile can be a daunting task for the uninitiated, but with the proper guidance and planning in advance it can be turned into a weekend project that will leave your kitchen with added value. Whether you choose marble, granite, or tile, install a countertop that you can enjoy.

Instructions

Layout and prep work

1

Set 5 to 6 tiles down on the floor in a row. Using spacers, space the tiles according to how wide you want your joints to be.

2

Using your tape measure, measure the area of your inlay. Find the center, and check the distance from the center point to the edge of your inlay. Transfer this measurement to your dry-laid tiles on the floor. If the end cut is of reasonable size (3-4 inches or larger), you can start tiling from the center.

3

Check the height of the wood on the outer perimeter. Your end result is to have your tile be flush with the wood, or slightly recessed. It is highly recommended to use a cement board or fiber board between the wood substrate of the countertop and the tile, to insure proper bond of the tile to the surface. However, if your wood trim is too thin you may have to simply stick the tile to the wood substrate itself in order to flush out with your wood edging.

4

Apply the under-layment. If you have room for the underlayment, prep the surface by sweeping it thoroughly. Using your drill and paddle, mix some of the latex modified thinset as per the instructions on the package. Cut the underlayment to fit. Generally you can simply use a utility knife to score the surface and snap it with your hands. Using your 1/8" notched trowel, spread the thinset evenly across the entire wood surface where your substrate will go. Place the substrate into the area and secure it with 1 1/4" roofing nails placed every 4-6 inches. If you do not have enough thickness to work with the underlayment, skip this step.

5

Using your measurements earlier, lay out a small grid on top of the substrate. Use your framing square to help make a square starting point and to verify your edges are in square with the starting point. Use your tape measure from the starting point and check all the edges to verify they are all the same distance. Any variations will show you where things are out of square.

Installation of the inlay

6

Start with your center point. Using your 1/4" notched trowel, spread the thinset evenly, leaving just enough of the lines drawn to place the starting tiles accordingly. Using your spacers, work from the center.

7

Measure the distance between the outer edge of the spacer and edge of the wood trim. You want to leave at least 1/8" between the edge of the tile and the edge of the wood for caulking. This will avoid cracking due to movement over time. If you put the cut too tight against the wood there will be no room for seasonal movement due to swelling and shrinking of organic materials, and the grout will crack.

8

Taking the measurement, mark the tile with a pencil. Using your cutting board (tile cutter), score the surface of the tile and snap it in half by applying pressure on the handle as per the instructions that came with the cutter.

9

Adjust each cut accordingly, if your surface is slightly out off square. If it is square, you can set the gauge on the tile cutter and cut enough pieces to fit.

10

Let it dry for 24 hours, minimum, before grouting.

Grouting and Caulking

11

Tape off all of the wood trim before grouting and caulking, as some grouts will stain wood.

12

Using your margin trowel, follow the instructions on the package to mix the grout. Do not use the drill and paddle to mix the grout, as this will whip air into the mixture which can cause air bubbles in grout, which will leave pinholes in your grout joints.

13

Using your grout float, spread the grout across the surface, being sure to force the grout into the joints between the tiles. Clean the excess grout from the surface by placing the grout float at a 45 degree angle and pull diagonally across the grout joints.

14

Fill one of your buckets with water. Let the grout sit for 15-30 minutes or until it is "tacky" to the touch. Take your finger and gently touch the grout joint. If it sticks to your finger it is still too wet to clean. If it doesn't, you can proceed to clean.

15

Wring your sponge as dry as you can. Using light, circular motions, work the remaining grout on the surface of the tile into the joints and smooth them flush with the surface of the tile. Rinse your sponge frequently. When you have finished, wipe the haze off the surface by pulling your sponge diagonally across the joints to keep from pulling the grout out.

16

Let area sit for 15-30 minutes and repeat the final rinse process by using a damp sponge to pull diagonally across the tiles, to remove the haze.

17

Rinse your sponge and clean your bucket out, filling it with clean water.

18

Using a damp sponge, run it along the edge of the tile and taped wood where you left the joint open. This keeps the caulking from drying up too quickly on the surface. Using a caulking gun, put caulk into the joint between the wood trim and the edge of the tile inlay. Only do small sections, no longer than 10' at a time. This keeps the caulk from drying up on you too quickly. Gently run your finger along to clean up any excess, then use the sponge and clean water to gently clean the surface of the tile and leave the caulked joint full. Repeat around perimeter until completed.

19

Let sit for several hours, then remove the blue tape. If any haze remains on the surface of the tile, use a dry towel or rag to simply buff it off.